A LA SOYER

The union which has been forced between the ‘ Children of the Sun,” and those of proud Albion, has thrown some beneficial rays upon our European domains and costumes, and if they have not improved our manners and habits, they have at all events changed them.

It is true, that we had previously to this, reaped marvellous things from the “ Celestial empire ;” but the English nation, always eager for novelty, could not be contented with their (Ombres Chinoises) Chinese shadows, but must possess them in reality. Since

this astonishing conquest you have Chinese quadrilles, Chinese

fashions, exhibitions furiously Chinese, and, for certain, several

millions of dollars, which are every bit as Chinese as the illustrious descendant of more than forty centuries, whom you are still expecting as a most extraordinary ambassador. I already perceive that your shoes, “jolies Anglaises,” change and diminish with great rapidity. Even now you appear to walk with difficulty ; really if you continue this practice, you will, like the Mandarins’ ladies, have very pretty

feet for sitting, but very bad ones for walking. The intellectual

HG en es so ak

CR SR on ON LS 2

70 PAGODATIQUE DISH.

part, which is covered with your splendid ‘ blonde chevelure," will

+ suffer 2 much as your little feet ; and it will be a contest between

your astonishing and gracious Amazons, who shall have their hair

turned up first, in hopes to resemble your celestial sister and

nuptial companion of the expected plenipotentiary. Your beau-

tiful eyes, I hope will remain, in their primitive purity; also that

clear and rich tone of colour, which brings to mind those extra-

ordinary fine visages clair de Lune de l'antiquité. The island of

Great Britain, adds to, and preserves, this superb and almost ephemeric colour, unknown to the soil of the Continent.

You may, nymphs of the ocean, let your nails grow in the fan-

> tastic manner of that captured country; that is, near an inch

i longer than our insignificant custom in Europe, which is, they say,

; ‘a part of the world far from being civilized.” I would also advise

aK you to use with moderation, the beaume Cremeux Houbigant,

which will preserve them that beautiful vermiel, so greatly admired.

But reflect for a moment, in giving full scope to your fashion-

ok able taste, you sacrifice a thousand chef-d’ceuvres, and entirely

forsake our iilustrious favourites, Mozart, Rossini, Meyerbeer,

Auber, Handel and many others; because you recollect that the

: harp, guitar, piano, &c., were not invented for the Mandarines : ; but setting aside all these little tribulations, while walking about with pain, you will have the gratification of hearing, “‘ There goes

a lady of the newest fashion.” :

While discoursing upon these trifling subjects, I did not perceive an enormous epicurean, not very particular in fashions, and

still less partial to politics, (which proves the difficulty of finding |

with intense anxiety, to hear the result of the notice on the title-

* PAGODATIQUE DISH. 71 several great accomplishments centred in one person,) was waiting : * page; immediately addressing me, he exclaimed, as our satiric Boileau might have said, ‘ Tout ce que vous venez de débiter est certainement bien plat,” but—‘‘where the deuce is your new entrée dish.” I begged a thousand pardons of my antagonist, and perceived to my great surprise, that I had involuntarily left my culinary laboratory, to undertake an ephemeric voyage to China. After an apology

on each side, the following dialogue took place between us:

‘ There is the model of the dish, what do you think of it, Sir!”

GRR MR -VSEY—

à N \ : ih ji ij ic I] “I perceive with pleasure,” he very politely replied, “that I

have not lost anything by waiting, it displays great taste and originality, and possesses the seal of innovation.”

* Allow me to take off the cover’ —

LOK EEO HIROKO KEIO HK

oe,

‘ Ah! what is the use of those divisions, or compartments ?”*

‘ The Chinese, as I have been informed by several celebrated travellers, amongst which your great diplomatist Sir Henry Pottinger (to whom I had lately the honour of being introduced, upon the occasion of his visit to the club) in viewing the dish, certified what I had previously heard from several illustrious men——By the by he has honoured me by subscribing for a set of them—here is

my album, and see, there is his autograph:

—for four pagodatique entrée dishes; this completes the service for the present, but in a short time a complete service for first and

second course can be easily manufactured at a reasonable price ——

* To show plainly the interior of this dish, it has been drawn one size larger than it

is in reality. These dishes are only to be had, by applying to Mr. Soyer, of the “ Reform Club.”

RS OS ne es oc à

PAGODATIQUE DISH. 73

but to return to the subject, I was telling you that those gentle-

men had informed me that the Chinese have, upon their tables at

their banquets, a profusion of fowls, and birds of all kinds, served without sauce or gravy, a plate being placed before each guest, similar to the European fashion, surrounded by three or four

small saucers, each containing different ingredients, spices and

SS pickles, suited to the dish they partake of; each person takes a wing or fillet, that being the only part they consider eatable. They | then cut it in small pieces, on their plates, and dip them into the different sauces, until they produce a favourite seasoning to their x taste. It might not be to either yours, or mine, but for all that, I

do not blame them.”

**Pon my word, it is very curious and clever; by this mode, your plate is free from encumbrance, a fault with which I always reproach our nation.”

‘ T have frequently heard of a ‘ Potage aux nids d’oiseau,’ we

call it in English, bird’s nest soup, it is said to be of the most

that subject, we will now return to our new ‘plat d’ entrée.’” ‘ Drawn by the frivolous fancy of fashion and folly of the times ; why, I thought, should not I endeavour to make myself as

ridiculous as any other person; I therefore submitted to the pro-

prietor of a large china establishment a drawing from which he executed with great taste, this Pagodatique table ornament. The several advantages which it possesses are easily understood,

one entrée, may have four different sauces, four entrées the

astonishing delicate substance.” ‘ I shall shortly have the pleasure of entertaining you upon

ook Cees

fit Gee eit Bont es 2.

74 PAGODATIQUE DISH.

varieties of sixteen, or of eight by putting the sauce double, I mean two compartments filled with the same sauce, and preserve the entrée as the Chinese do au naturel, To add to its great variety, small dinners (érès recherchés) can be served upon it for one or two persons, the sight of a small and delicate entrée will sometimes invite the appetite, where a large entrée approaches too near vulgarity, and would produce a contrary effect ; to know how to live an epicurean in desire, is a great art, but so true it is, that if all our wishes were accomplished, life would be an enormous burthen; and nothing can effect this important object, but the delicacy and lightness of a well-conceived dish. This once obtained, a first rate epicure will not only eat with a greater degree of zest and stimulation, but he will, at the same time, enjoy the pleasurable sensations arising from his keen and unerring discernment, that the sister twins, art and science, have been busily employed in administering to his taste. 1 must also observe, that from his profound knowledge of the rules of life, he will always bear in mind, that ‘ moderation is the goddess of health.’ “Very true! very true.” :

“For instance, a real epicure is well aware, and can appreciate that he owes all the delights and pleasures of his existence to a good state of health; for without it no one can enjoy the pleasures of life, and still less the pleasure of dégustation; so true is this, that even the company of our best and beloved friends, the possession of riches and honours, the greatest celebrity and glory, lose their charms where health is compromised ; the most delicate food

loses. its zest, the most melodious chords of music, and the greatest

PAGODATIQUE DISH. 75

optical delights are evanescent the beauties of nature are lost, and every thing is without charm, even the sun—yes, that sun itself, which pours life upon Creation, importunes our wretched frame with his torrent of light and universal splendour; which proves that we ought profoundly to study those great agents of nature, which preside over our organic movements. Allowing us to use with moderation what our senses desire, is far from a meagre or redoubtable privation for the illustrious disciples of Epicurus; excess and want of experience, has often been the cause’ of man falling into the greatest errors, which have been most pernicious to his health, From the celestial vault, the indefinable power desires to guide us safely, and by following his divine lesson, we shall not only enjoy extreme happiness, but obey the dictates of our great and wise Creator.”

“TJ perfectly understand your argument, and have often recognized the profound truth of it, If it is not asking too much, would you be so kind as to name a few entrées you would recommend for these compartments, and sufficient dinner for one or two ladies ?”

“ It will give me much pleasure to do so, I will mention several : for instance, if a dinner for two persons, I would serve in the centre,

filets de sole à la Hollandaise, and in the four corners.

Deux Côtelettes d’Agneau aux Pois,

Un Filet de Volaille, piqué à la Purée de Champignons, Deux Quenelles de Lapereaux aux Truffes,

Demi Perdreaux en Salmi,

Kobo sk ced ee en 2 :

> / Fi 70 PAGODATIQUE DISH.

Escalopes de ris de Veau aux Pointes d'Asperges, Quatre Rissolles aux Huitres, + In the Centre. Poulet printannier piqué aux Cressons, Deux Côtelettes de Mouton à la Reform,

Blanquette de Filets de Volaille aux truffes, |

Deux Filets de Grouse à la Bohémienne,

Deux Escalopes de Filet de Bœuf, sauce poivrade, Centre. One slice of Salmon en Matelotte,

Deux Croquettes de Volaille, à la Purée de Foie Gras,

Un Ris de Veau piqué à la Financière,

Deux Grenadins de Veau à la Palestine,

Deux Boudins de Volaille à la Richelieu, Centre. Roast Duckling, 4 Deux Eperlans frits à la Boulangère, Salmi de Bécasse, *K

Deux Ries d’Agneau age à la Purée de Choux-fleurs, Une Caille aux Feuilles de Vigne,

Centre. A slice of Turbot à la Mazarine, Un Ailleron et filet de Volaille à la Marengo,

Deux Rissolettes à la Pompadour,

‘I can also give you a few plainer bills of fare, for the same:

Pommes de terre à la Maître d'Hôtel, : ©

Carbonade de Mouton à la Provençale,

Centre. Small Rump steak, Un choufleur sauce au beurre, :

Un Pigeonneau à la Jardinière,

PAGODATIQUE DISH. 77 Choux de Bruxelles à la Crême, Mince Veal and two poached Eggs, Centre. — Half a broiled Fowl with gravy,.

Pomme de terre a la Hollandaise, Un Filet de Bœuf, sauce Tomate, NY, NX Deux Cotelettes de Mouton à la Soubise, “ Qudtre Jérusalem Artichauds à la Bechamele, Centre. Slice of Cod and Oyster sauce, Minced Beef, sauce piquante, aK Pomme de terre frite, Stewed Oysters, Two Poe plain boiled, Centre. Stewed Rabbit and Onion sauce, i Two Escalopes of Veal and Ham, 3k Un Brocoli sauce au beurre.

The sauces and garnitures of many of these may be varied; and : a as you see in some of the lists, two entrées only served, and the

will enable you to perceive clearly that the variations of which it is

capable are almost without end. I beg also to observe that the dish

after having been placed an hour or two in a hot closet (as it is

other two compartments filled with vegetables either plain or dressed, the centre remaining for something larger, either plain or dressed ; according to the taste of different persons: but your good judgment N N

customary to do with all dishes previous to the dinner being served),

it will retain the heat nearly an hour, without applying hot water,

red hot iron, or spirits of wine, which always produces a disagreeable

78 PAGODATIQUE DISH.

effect, and is often the cause of a dinner being detained, as they must wait till the last minute before this operation commences. This essential part,” he replied, ‘‘added to its elegance, holds out most favourable prospects of success to this beautiful Pagodatique dish; and I really cannot see why in a dinner of eight or ten entrées, the four corners could not be ornamented with such dishes; as they would produce the most agreeable effects and the too great uniformity of the service, which is not very picturesque, and unfortunately always employed.” .

“T have only one more favour to ask of you—it relates to those birds’ nests.”

‘“‘For the present I hope you will excuse me, as it is now five o'clock, and from six to eight I have several petits diners très recherchés, which require all my attention; but favour me with another visit shortly, and then we will terminate our culinary conversation, without occupying our precious time about the eccentric Chinese, but will confine ourselves to their nests.”

‘ You are quite right in mentioning it. I should be extremely sorry to importune you, for I know too well what it is to wait impatiently for a dinner, and know it to be equally as bad for a dinner to wait for you.”

“ Both are very bad, but the latter is almost unpardonable to a real gourmet.” |

“It may be, but observe, that by making a hungry stomach

wait, you expose it tocommit the greatest injustice; because that à

ungrateful organ, will make one believe, that the minutes you are

kept waiting before dinner are longer than the hours spent after.”

PAGODATIQUE DISH. 79

“ Your argument is but too true, Sir, and it will prove to you at the same time, that there are immense difficulties to be surmounted in our very difficult and complicated profession, independent of the trouble and tedious work which must be carried safely through the greatest anxiety.”

“ Very true, very true, I wish you good afternoon; and before I leave London, I shall do myself the pleasure of paying you another visit. Grood day.”

‘ I can assure you, Sir, you will be most welcome.”

‘ Oh, by the by, I am sorry to call you down stairs again, I will be with you in half a minute; here it is, I beg your acceptance of this small brochure, it is a receipt for the most recherché dish that ever was invented, it is extracted from my gastronomic work now in progress,

‘ Oh! I am one of your subscribers; when will it appear ?”

‘ Not before next season.”

‘ That’s a long time.” f

“Yes sir, but it is my intention to make an entire new work of it, and very different to any culinary work previously published. By that I do not mean to say it will be better, and perhaps not so good as many of them; but it will contain a large number of new receipts, written in a style, which, I flatter myself, will tend very much to simplify the present system.”

“Let me see this receipt, but I require my spectacles—here they are.—‘Za Créme de la Grande Bretagne, Macédoine; but it is French, I am sorry for that.”

“Why Sir?”

80 PAGODATIQUE DISH.

“Because my cook is English, and it will be very difficult for him to make, as he understands so little of French.”

“Oh! Sir, if that is his only preventative, it would be a pity to

deprive you of having it, so here is an English translation of it.

You are welcome to both Sir.”

‘6The Cream of Great Britain,’ oh! thank you, thank you, [ will read it at home and then give it to him; but is it practicable at this season of the year.”

“Quite as practicable at one season as another, for it is partly composed of flowers, which bloom, in all seasons.

‘ Indeed, then I will certainly have it made.”

‘ I depend upon your impartial judgment; be so kind as to let me know what you think of that unique composition.”

“I will without fail, and do myself the pleasure of writing you a note upon that subject. Good afternoon.”

** Good afternoon, Sir.”

It has been reported to us, that as soon 7 he got home, he comfortably set himself in his arm chair à la Douairière, and

appeared reading with great surprise, the receipt for the:

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