RASE
Very dear John,
RE Re ii rh pt
Your sincere well wisher,
Wizzp. FERD. WENTZEL.
To Lieut. John McKenzie, Terrebonne,
Lower Canada.
P.S.—Pray write me long and broad next year, and be so good s to remember me to our acquaintances at Terrebonne, partilarly to l’aimable Demoiselle and the rough old Doctor Fraser.
e ‘ mire dE cts nsste
Havir we emb (!) Our Mr. Que
At thi yards w Having
rapid wi] against Below t] yards an
After ashore a and had small isla 4 PM, W
(1) Probat Lake, (2) Hon. J Frederick Au On his retu Upper Canac Baldwin, a re he returned t of the Specia and friends, w Mr, Quesne and a sister of
(3) Mr, Fr:
this river to b
Having made every necessary preparation for a long voyage, we embarked at 5 o’clock A.M. in four canoes at Fraser’s River. () Our crew consisted of ninueen men, two Indians, Mr. Stuart, Mr. Quesnel (2) and myself, in all twenty-four.
At this place the Columbia (3), which is about three hundred yards wide, overflows its banks and has a very strong current. Having proceeded about eighteen miles, we came to a strong rapid which we ran down, nearly wrecking one of our canoes against a precipice which forms the right bank of the river. Below this point, the channel contracts to no more than seventy yards and runs through two rocks
After running down several considerable rapids, we put ashore at eleven A.M. for break'ast. We reembarked at one, and had fine going with a smooth current interspersed wih small islands ; several tombs and houses along the left bank. At 4P.M, we passed a river eighty yards wide, on the right, which
(1) Probably the river known to-uay as Nechaco River and flowing from Fraser Lake,
(2) Hon. Jules Maurice Quesnel, son of Mr. Joseph Quesnel and brother of the Hon. Frederick Auguste Quesnel.
On his return from the North-West in 1811, Mr. Quesnel resided several years in Upper Canada where he traded in partneïship with a Mr. St. George and a Mr. Baldwin, a relative of the Hon. R. Baldwin. Having acquired a considerable fortune, he returned to Montreal, was appointed a Legislative Councillor and, later, a member of the Special Council and died in 1842 regretted by a very large circle of relatives and friends, who much admired his sterling qualities, his talents and energy.
Mr, Quesnel married a Miss Coté, a daughter of an independant North-West trader and a sister of Mrs. Alexis Laframboise «nt Mrs. François Antoine Larocque.
(3) Mr. Fraser shargd in the common error prevailing at that time and believed this river to be the Columbia. He only discovered his error at the end of his journey.
1808, May 22nd, Saturday.
158 SIMON FRASERS
we named Bourbonneur. Here we saw two houses which our Indians called the summer residence of a Nasquitin chief. We landed and left marks to let the Natives know we had passed, We continued our route, and encamped at 6—put our arms in order—gave ammunition to all hands and established à regular watch. We gathered wild onions for sauce.
29th, Sunday.
Cold morning.—We were under way at 4 A.M.; went ashore on an island nd secured a bale of driea salmon for our return,
A little lower the river contracts into a narrow space and forces
80th, Monday.
its way violently between high rocks; the canoes, howëver, being lightened, were run down. Here we put three bales of salmon into cache and carried the rest through a very rugge country. It was late before we had cleared this carrying place which we called ‘ La Décharge de la Montagne,” and, continuing with a strong current in our favor, we passed a small river on our left. Its banks are high, composed of clay and sand, and there is a house near the entrance. We soon after came to another river where we encamped at sun set.
This afternoon we observed several houses ofthe Nasquitins(l, The country around has a very fine aspect, consisting of exten-
sive plains, and, behind these, hills rising over hills. The trees
in this quarter are pine, cypress, birch, hemlock, cedar, juniper, &c. At night, flashes of Lightning accompanied with loud peak of thunder, and heavy rain.
We embarked at 5 A.M. and ran down a strong current. The country all along is charming and, judging from the number of houses we saw, is well inhabited. At 6, we put ashore near a large house where we found a cache of fish. After having taken a few salmons out of it and left their value in place, we secure the rest for its owners. We observed some vertiges of hors at this place. A little below, we left a bale of salmon en cache,
(1) Nas-Koo-tin, (Harmon).
whic} mead romal Con ceived in gre large ] opposi to the within us, Spe unders voured contint speakin still on back w man, à campen we disc ([} natic Be infor many N day, anc our intc This in:
induced In the on horse
—___——— (1) Mate-
on the Colur (2) Tacul (3) The A
east of Fort
es which our à chief. We e had passed.
our arms in ed à regular
went ashore or our return.
ace and forces oes, howéver, three bales of a very rugged “arrying place nd, continuing mall river on and sand, an
after came to
Nasquitins (| sting of extenills. The trees cedar, juniper, vith loud peak
- current. The the number 0 ashore near à
er having taken
ace, We secured
tiges of horsts à
almon en cache,
which caused some delay. This country, interspersed with meadows, hills, dales and high rocks, has, on the whole, a romantic and pleasant appearance.
Continuing our course expeditiously, we on a sudden per-The Atcœived some of the Natives on the left shore who appeared to be dians.
in great confusion. We crossed to the right and landed at a large house. Our Indians then called ont to the strangers on the opposite shore, informing them that we were white people going to the sea. À woman of the Atnah nation, who happened to be within hearing on our side of the river, came running towards us, speaking as loud as possible, but our interpreter could not understand her ; she nevertheless continued speaking and endeavoured to supply the deficiency in language by signs. She so continued, at times addressing the people on the other side, then speaking to us. We, in the mean time, crossed over, but were still on the water edge when couriers were despatched on horseback with the news to the next Indians, and we only found a man, a woman with three children of the Atnah nation at the campement, all much alarmed at our appearance. Among them we discovered a young boy whose mother was of the Tahowtin () nation who understood a little of the Carrier (2) language. Beinformed us that in consequence of the couriers just sent off, many Natives would make their appearance in the course of the day, and that it would be dangerous for us to proceed before our intentions were publicly known thoughout the country. This information, added to the desire of procuring guides, induced us to remain the rest of the day.
In the afternoon, some Tahowtins and Atnaughs (5) arrived on horseback ; they seemed peaceably inclined and happy to see
(1) Mate-ote-tain : Harmon. They lived onthe Natcotin River. Cox, ‘ Adventures on the Columbia, ”” calls them, Talkotins.
(2) Tacullies : Harmon.
(8) The Atnah or Chin Indians occupied a region of about 100 miles south and southeast of Fort Alexandria. Cox.
Fire-arms.
us, and observed that, having heard by their neighbours that white people were to visit their country this season, they haq remained near the route to receive us.
According to the accounts we received here, the river below is but a succession of falls and cascades which we would find impossible to pass, not only on account of the difficulties of the channel, but from the extreme ruggedness and the mountainous character of the surrounding country. Their opinion, there. fore, was that we should discontinue our voyage and remain with them. TI remarked that our determination of going on was fixed ; they then informed us that, at the next camp, the Great Chief of the Atnaugh nation had a slave who had been tothe sea and which he might probably give us as a guide.
These Indians had heard of fire-arms, but had never seen any, and they evinced a great desire of seeing ours and obtaining In compliance, we fired several
explanatiors as to their use.
shots whose reports astonished them so as to make them drop Upon recovering from their surprise, we made They appeared quite uneasy on
off their legs.
them examine their effect.
seeing the marks on the trees and observed that the Indians n that quarter were good and peaceable, and would never make use of their arms to annoÿ white people; yet they remarkel that we ought to be on our guard, and proceed with great care when approaching villages, for, should we surprise the Natives, they might take us as enemies, and, through fear, attack us with their arrows. Here we lost our swivel; it had a flaw before and, perhaps on account of an overcharge, it broke into pieces and wounded our gunner. This accident alarmed the Indians, but having succeeded in convincing them that it was of no great consequence, they were satisfied. The Atnah language has no affinity to any other I know, an
it was by means of two different interpreters we were enablel The men of this tribe are of a diminutive, bu
to understand it.
active their x aroun( our me Aftei dition one of langua, rent, Ww Carryin loads, w two mil The C terday a usand p roots ; t] mended had à kn duced.
spread ot to sketch took, bu knowledg directed him. Wa tion of w tion and, much of o Our journé The Chi much in next natio strangers,
hbours that on, they had
river below re would find ‘ulties of the mountainous jinion, there.
7e and remain going on Was np, the Great ad been to the ide.
ever seen an’, and obtaining re fired several ke them Grp prise, we made ite uneasy 01 the Indians in d never make they remarkel rith great Cart se the Natives, fear, attack us it had a fa e, it broke int t alarmed the em that it Was
Br £ know, and
were enablel |
diminutive, Dui
JOURNAT 161
active appearance ; they dress in skins prepared in the hair; their weapons are bows and arrows neatly finished. The country around consists of plains well stocked with animals ; some of our men who were out hunting saw plenty of deer. After dressing the gunner’s wounds and examining the con- ia Tuosdition of our fire-arms, we embarked at 5 A.M., accompanied ; one of the Tahowtin Indians as an interpreter for the Atnah language. Aided by several rapids and a continual strong current, we had soon performed twelve miles and arrived at the carrying place. Here the canoes, being lightened of half their loads, were run down; the other half was carried by land for two miles through a very uneven country.
The Chief and the Indians recommended to our attention yes-'rne guide. terday and who were encamped on a hill to the left, soon joined us and presented us with dried salmon and different kinds of roots ; the last, we could not well relish, though highly recommended by them. After enquiring repeatedly for the slave who had a knowledge of the country below, he was at last introduced. To form an estimate of his capacity, I had two oilcloths spread out for the ground of a chart upon which 1 desired him to sketch the country towards the sea. This he readily undertook, but his endeavours soon convinced me that his stock of knowledge was very slender indeed, for his lines were entirely directed by an elderly man, a relation ofthe chief, who stood by him We could however plainly see in his sketch a confirmation of what had been told us of the difficulties of the navigation and, thereby, the necessity of leaving our canoes, with as much of our baggage as we could spare, in order to continue our journey by land.
The Chief, who had been an advocate of our cause, spoke psire of much in our favor to his owu people. He assured us that the ji He next nation were good Indians and would be kind to white?!" strangers. Having given to our new friend a hint that trading
The old chief,
posts would be established in his country within a short perioj he immediately offered to accompany us himself all the Way, remarking, at the same time, that he was well known, and that his experience and influence would be found of great conse. quence to our security and success. Then his brother presente me with a fine beaver skin and a well dressed deer skin, and recommended the Chief to our particular protection. L thanke him for his presents and assured him that every attention should be paid 10 his relation, and that, besides, he would be handsomely rewarded for his trouble on our return.
When this ceremony was over, the Chief, his slave, and our Tahowtin interpreter having got ready, took their departure, but the last was unwilling to proceed, alledging for excuse that his wife and children would be subject to starvation in his & absence ; we however prevailed upon him to proceed. At the lower end of the carrying place, we met eighteen men who hal come to see us; Î shook hands with them; they surveyed w
closely, but were friendly inclined. This tribe is extremelr fond of smoking and were very troublesome, always plaguing us for our pipes. They make use, in lieu of tobacco, of a kin of weed mixed with fat.
had found its way from the lower parts of the river.
We left four bales of salmon in charge of the Chiefs brother and proceeded down a strong current through many bad places until late in the afternoon, when we came to a very long rapil which, upon visiting, we found strong and dangerous. It bein nearly night, we encamped. It blew a hurricane from the soutl the whole of this afternoon which rendered our progress slow, tedious and often dangerous; at imes, our canoes were nl manageable and within an ace f filling or of being dashed pieces against the rocks. While visiting the rapids, we observel some Iudians on the opposite side of the river, but they did not
The Chief showed us a calumet which 1
see US.
habit of that the any exer superior accompa notwiths should re of the ni, Before h guns and “Thougt people, sl about in t This me Natives b Mr, Stuart we found which con yards. TI narTOW Sp and cascai and forbid as next to account of to venture Leaving in order to the other | Lordered t] loaded, an passing the into the ed
short period, all the way, own, and that )f great conse.
ther presente eer skin, and on. [I thankel very attention he would be Trn.
slave, and our heir departure, for excuse tha tarvation in hi roceed. At the 1 men who hal ey surveyed us e is extremely ways plaguing bacco, of a kinl
calumet which
ver.
Chiefs brother any bad plat ery long rapil erous. It being from the soul progress sl, inoes were ml being dashed ds, we observel ut they did not
any exertions of his nation, but added that his confidence in our superiority over them was such thal he would not hesitate to acompany us wherever we thought proper to venture. Being, votwithstanding this profession, apprehensive less the old man should regret his undertaking and give us the slip in the course of the night, I had his bed made in my tent by way ofsecurity. Before he went to rest, he recommended me to have all our guns and pistols iu good order in case of surprise from enemies. “Though the Indians,” continued he, ‘“ are generally good people, still there may be bad men among them who will go about in the dark.”
Mr. Stuart, six men and myself went again to visit the rapid; we found it about two miles long, with high and steep banks which contracted the channel in many places to forty or fifty yards. This immense body of water passing through this narrow space in a turbulent manner, forming numerous gulfs D und cascades and making a tremendous noise, had ar awful and forbidding appearance. Nevertheless, since it was considered as next to impossible to carry the canoes across the land on account of the height and steepness of the hills, it was resolved to venture them down this dangerous pass.
in order to watch the motions of the Natives, I returned with the other four men to the camp.
Immediately on my arrival, Lordered the five best men out of the crews into a canoë lightly After passing the first cascade, she lost her course and was drawn into the eddy where she was whirled about for a considerable
loaded, and the canoe was in a moment under way.
se us We inquired of the Chief if the Natives were in the nr on
habit of running down this rapid; he said no, as he thought white ‘ men’s suthat the whirlpools would swallow up any canoes or overpower periority.
an noof
This morning at an early hour all hands were ready and the Juxr,
Natives began to appear from every quarter in great numbers. 1st, Wednesday.
Leaving Mr. Stuart and two men at the lower end of the rapid Disaster to a canoe.
time, seemingly in suspense whether to sink or swim, the men having no power over her. However, she took a favourable
turn and by degrees was led from this dangerous vortex again
into the stream. In this manner she continued, flying from one danger to another until the last cascade but one, where, in spite of every effort, the whirlpools forced her against a low projecting rock. Upon this, the men debarked, saved their own lives and contrived to save the property, but the greatest diff. culty was still ahead, and to continue by water would be the way to certain destruction. |
During this distressing scene, we were on shore looking on and anxiously concerned ; seeing our poor fellows once more safe afforded us as much satisfaction as to themselves and we hastened to their assistance, but their situation rendered or approach perilous and difficult. The bank was extremely high and steep, and we had to plunge our daggers at intervals into the ground to check our speed, às otherwise we were exposed to slide into the river. We cut steps in the declivity, fastened a line to the front of the canoe, with which some of the men ascended in order to haulit up, while the others supported it upon their arms. In this manner our situation was most precerious; our lives hung, as it were, upon a thread, as the failure of the line or a false step of one of the men might have hurled the whole of us into Eternity. However, we fortunately cleared the bank before dark.
The men who had the rest of the baggage in charge per. ceiving, from these difficulties, the impossibility of attempting the rapid with safety, began to carry, and had immense high hills to ascend with heavy loads on their backs.
Numbers of Natives came to see us in the course of the day and remained. They assured us that the navigation for a certain distance below was impracticable, and advised us to leave our canoes in their charge and proceed on our journey by land to
a greal | The cot could be should 1 an indir fore wo my origi The In arms, an of their f who inha they call present oi shore baw of no serv with their The rive more Indi the baggas line, two < ficulties at of leaving Stuart and cation to received ev xiOUS suspe The Indi.
deranging more of the continue by ere of ser
(1) The Tho
m, the men
favourable vortex again ng from one , where, in ainst a low ed their own reatest diffi.
would be the
> looking on vs once more elves and we rendered our tremely high intervals into were exposed ity, fastened ne of the men supported il was mosi pre as the failure have hurled nately cleared
charge perof attempting mense high
se of the day for a certain to leave our
y by land to
a great river that flows from the left into this communication (1). The country, they said, consisted of plains, and the journey could be perforu.ed with horses in four or five days, thence we should have smooth water to the sea. But going to the sea by mindirect way was not the object of the undertaking ; I therefore would not deviate and continued our route according to my original intention.
The Indians seemed pleased in our company ; they carried no arms, and this confidence, I suppose, was meant as a testimony of their friendship. There is a tribe of Carriers among them who inhabit the banks of a large river which flows to the right ; they call themselves Chilk-hodins. About sixty Indians were present on this occasion, and as many more were on the opposite shore bawling to send for them, but, as their presence could be of no service to us, we thought it more advisable to dispense with their company as much as possible.
The river had risen eight feet within these twenty four hours ; more Indians arrived : all hands were hard at work carrying the baggage and, with the assistance of the Indians and of the lne, two of the canoes were hauled up the hill. Seeing the difficulties attending this experiment, we came to the determination of leaving the other canoes and part of the provisions. Mr. Stuart and some of the men agreed to go by land, but on application to the Indians for the horses they had promised, we received evasive answers and passed the rest of the day in anxious suspense.
The Indians having deceived me, I was under the necessity of deranging my plans of yesterday and, this morning, had one more of the canoes taken up the hill, so that allthe party might continue by water. We could procure only four horses ; these were of service in the carrying place where the road is exces-
me
(1) The Thompson River.
Chilcotin Judians,
nd Thursday.
3rd Friday.
The Atnahs ; their residences,.
Their appearance.
sively bad, being continually up and down hill and sometimes along the edge of dangerous declivities over which a horse with Mr. Stuart's desk and our medecine chest tumbled and were lost.
The canoes and the other articles which remained, I gave in charge to an Indian who, we were assured, was an honest, good man, ‘The Indians made us understand that within a couple of days more we should come to a plentifulcountry where the people were hospitable, but having by this time acquired suffi. cient knowledge of the character of our new councellors, we became more careful, gave them civil answers, but, in all, fol. lowed the dictates of our own judgement.
This is called the Atnah nation; their country is well stocked with large animals, and they consequently pay very little atten. tion to fishing.
winter quarters, which are built underground, are square below
In summer, they reside in shades, and their
diminishing gradually in size to the top, where there is a small aperture which serves the double purpose of door and chimney, while a post with notches answers for stairs. The Atnah wish to be friendly to strangers. ‘The men are talland slender, of a serious disposition and inclined to industry: they say they never sing nor dance, but we observed them playing at hasard, a game well known among the Indians of Athabasca. They besmear their bodies with oil and red earth and paint their faces in different colours : their dress is leather. They are great travellers and have been at war beyond the Seing our powder They informed us
Rocky Mountains, where they saw buffaloes.
horns, they knew them to be of that animal.
that white people had lately passed down the first large river to the left; these were supposed to be some of our friends from the department of Fort des Prairies (1).
(3) Mr. D. Thompson, who, in 1806, crossed the Rocky Mountuins, going up the North Saskatchewan.
It w.
Indian to acco of the lost ye:
we har time wi and sca to the more h
These tombs and con
At G À dians w!
cipice of Continue rapids, à shipped :
On visiti
and full how to a choice, v canoes, 0 provided
The ca immediat trial expe exhausted danger of undertaki
d sometimes a horse with xd were lost.
ed, I gave in honest, good n à Couple of ry where the cquired suffi.
incellors, we ut, in all, fol-
well stocked ry little atten.
es, and their square below ere is à small and chimney,
The men are kd to industry:
bserved them he Indians of and red earth ress is leather.
r beyond the
g our powder :y informed us
large river (0 » friends from
ains, going up the
JOURNAIT, 167
It was late this morning before we got ready. Indian, who seemed to be well acquuinted with the river, promised toaccompany us, but this morning declined, saying he was afrail of the rapids ; another brought us a pistol which Mr. Quesnel
lost yesterday while on horseback ; this was a piece of honesty Indian
we hardly expected, though, I must say, that during the whole time we were there, and although many things were let loose and scattered about in such a manner as to afford all opportunity to the Natives, nothing went astray. The Atnahs therefore seem more honest than any other tribe on this side of the Mountains.
These Indians do not burn the dead, but bury them in large tombs which are of a conical form, about twenty feet diameter and composed of coarse timber.
At 6 A. M. we were on the water ant crossed over to the Indians who were on the opposite side, Here we observed a precipice of immense height à head which seemed to bar the river (1). Continued our course with a strong current ; ran down several rapids, and came to a dangerous one in which the canoes, having shipped much water and having nearly upset, we had to land. On visiting the lower part of it and having found it very strong and full of tremendous whirlpools, we were greatly at a loss how to act. The nature of our situation however left us no choice, we were under the necessity, either ofrunning downthe anoes, or of abandoning them : we therefore unloaded and provided each of them with five men.
The canoe which went first having succeeded, the other two immediately followed. The struggles which the men on this trial experienced between the whirlpools and the rocks almost exhausted their strength, the canoes having been in continual
danger of sinking or of being broken to pieces ; it was a desperate undertaking !
(1) The ‘ Bar Rock ’’.
Last night, an 4th, Sun-
Dangerous After escaping this danger the men returned by land for the “it baggage. This task was as difficult and dangerous as going by water, being obliged to pass on a declivity which formed the border of a huge precipice, on loose stones and gravel which constantly gave way under their feet. One of them, who hai lost the path, got into a most intricate and F vilous situation. With a large package on his back, he got so engaged among the rocks that he could neither move forward nor backward, nor yet unload himself, without imminent danger. Seeing this poor fellow in such an awkward and dangerous predicaimnent, | crawled, not without great risk, to his assistance, and saved his life by causing his load to drop from his back over the precipice into the river. This carrying place, two miles long, had so shattered our shoes that our feet became quite sore and full oi
blisters.
5th, Mon. Fine weather. In the night,'the water lowered about two feel:
day.
we were off at five; good going, as a strong current with several rapids were in our favor. t 9, we landed at the head ofa
dangerous place. The river, which is not, here, over thiry yards wide, passes between two precipices and is turbulent, noisy and awful to behold. The carrying place is at least a mile long, the ground rough, but there is a-beaten path. The men tLok five hours to transport the baggage across ; we were all much harassed by fatigue.
Portage du Here we found a horn of the Sasyan or Rocky Mountain Be ram. We called this portage du baril. About two miles below, we passed a small river on the right upon which live the Carriers we saw the other day. It runs through a fine country abounding with animals such as orignal, red deer, caribni, beaver, &c. The Natives make use of horses.
Soon after, we came to a rapid which, appearing turbulent, was visited. We then lightened the canoes and ran thiem down, experiencing much danger; one of the canoes was drawn int
a whir happer were $ The ca very b we ha some of
Earl river, b the di painful their fe great ve the rapi informe
our can ticable.
offered u I sent river for
returned the oppo:
passed t] consultat before de Stuart we encamped
Fine w day, the fndians, t state of th their thir covered x
land for the 18 as going by h formed the gravel which em, who hal lous situation.
sed among the backward, nor 2eing this poor redicainent, | and saved his r the precipice s long, had so re and full oi
about two feet:
ntwith several at the head of a e, over thirly dis turbulent,
is at least a iten path. The ross ; We were
pcky Mountain ro miles below, which live the a fine count deer, caribou,
turbulent, was an them down, ras drawn int
a whirlpool so strong that it twisted offits stern, but this having happened near the bank and at the end of the rapid, the men were saved and the canoe was dragged on shore, full of water. The carrying place was along the side of a steep high hill and very bad. The country altogether looks wild. Most of the day we had a great run with a strong current and many rapids, some of which were dangerous; we encamped at 7 P.M.
Early this morning I despatched two men to examine the ei Tues-
river, but they could not go far. The high hills, the precipices, the difficulty attending ravines, &c., rendered walking very painful; a pair of shoes does not last the day, and the men have their feet full of thorns We embarked at 7, passed on with great velocity, and observed many shades or huts for fishing at the rapids. At 10, we arrived at the falls Here the old chief informed us that we would be under the necessity of leaving our canoes; we examined the rapids and found them impracticable. Cascades and whirlpools hemmed in by huge rocks offered us a dreary prospect indeed.
Isent Mr. Quesnel and six men to examine both sides of the river for a carrying place; after an absence of three hours, they returned and informed us that there was a well beaten track on the opposite side which was about iour miles long, but which passed through a wild country. We crossed over and held a consultation at which it was resolved to examine again the river before deciding on carrying the canoes. Mr. Quesnel and Mr. Stuart were ordered upon this service for next morning and we ENCAMPE se sossessrnossononssserensenee see ro tanandino
Fine weather.
day, the two gentlemen, accompanied by six men, one of our {ndians, the interpreter and the old chief set out to examine the state of the river ; the men who remained were busy mending their things. The mountains in sight were very high and covered with snow; our guide told us that they were the
This morning, according to our plan of yester- HAE nesday.
SIMON FRASERS
highest on that communication. The trees were poplars and
pines......…. nisreianenrees Musset en en was cast UE Fine weather, excessive heat all day ; we examined ow wisin t} salmon, which is our only provisions, and discovered we hal side and not enough for a month, however, we were told we could fini skimmin plenty with the Indians along the route. mined, f About 3 A. M, our party, abating the chief and the interpreter arrived à returned. They had been at the rapide convert distant about gratulati eighteen miles and saw but one bad rapid on the way. Going breathing out, they kept near the river and had great difficulty, and m the India their return, they kept on the topof the hills and had agreable old frienc walking. They saw a band of Natives with whom our Indian our party remained to wait our arrival. About 6, our canoes were putin The Inc the water and we conducted them with the line down tothe which ref first cascade ; the others were run down, though not without insur mou: danger ; fortunately the water had recently fallen several feet for ventur otherwise we could never have ventured on these rapids ; after M 45 advised two hours’ paddling down a strong current, we encamped. this comm
9th, Fri- This morning, our men put on their best clothes ; our two places be "a Indians haviug ouig a beaver robe and an orignal skin, I gave ascend anc each a blanket and a braillet, so that we might appear to mor kdders, & advantage to the eyes of the new Indians we were to meet atthe I prevai rapide couvert. At 7 A. M. our arms and every thing being in à " then ca due order, we embarked, and in a few hours after we wereat pilot order
our destinatio2. were very They run Here the channel contracts to about forty yards, and is enclosed any we ha cades inte
. by two precipices of immense height which, bending towards each other, make it narrower above than below. The water which rolls down this extraordinary passage ir tumultuow waves aud with great velocity had a frightful appearance. However, it being àbsolutely impossible to carry the canoes by land, all hands without hesitation embarked as it were a corys perdu upon the mercy of this awful tide. Once engaged. the die
mountains saw anythi present, w mountains eternal sno
Our two of going ah
poplars and xamined our ered we hal ve could find
he interpreter, distant about > way. Going iculty, and on | had agreable om our Indian es were putin e down to the zh not without An several feet, e rapids ; after ncamped.
thies ; our two al skin, I gave appear to more to meet atthe thing beingin fter we were at
and is enclosel nding towards ow. The water ir tumultuous ful appearantt y the canoes by
it were «a Corp bngaged. the die
JOURNAZ 171
was cast, our great difficulty consisted in keeping the canoes within the medium or fil«d’eau, that is, clear of the precipice on one side and from the gulfs formed by the waves on the other. Thus kimming along as fast as Lightning, the crews, cool and determined, followed each other in awful silence, and when we arrived at the end, we stood gazing at each other in silent congratulation at our narrow escape from total destruction. After breathing a little we continued our course to the point where the Indians were encamped. Here we were happy to find our old friend the chief and the interpreter who immediate:y joined our party.
The Indians of this place drew a chart of the river below which represented it to us as a dreadful chain of apparently nsurmountable difficulties ; at the same time they blamed us for venturing so far with our canoes and for not passing by land, as advised by the old chief on a former occasion, asserting that this communication, both by land and by water, would in some places be found impracticable to strangers, as we should have to ascend and descend mountains and precipices by means of rope ladders, &c.
I prevailed upon another Indian to embark with us as pilot, we then continued our course till late in the evening, when our pilot ordered us ashore forthenight. This afternoon, the rapids were very bad, two in particular were worse if possible than any we had hitherto met with, being a continual series of cas-
cades intercepted with rocks and bounded by precipices and
mountains that seemed at times to have no end. TI scarcely ever saw anything so dreary and dangerous in any country, aud ât present, while writing this, whatever way I turn my eyes, mountains upon mountains whose summits are covered with eternal snow, close the gloomy scene.
Our two Atnah and the Tahowtin Indians intimated a wish of going ahead to the next nation, which they call the Askettihs.
The Asket-
tihs.
10th, Saturday.
11th, Sunday.
They start overland.
The distance, they say, is not more than twenty five miles, or the same from here as the rapide couvert. T told them we shouli decide upon that point to-morrow, when we would have more knowledge of our situation. The weather has been very hot
these two days. The water, as appears by its highest marks
has lowered ten feet.
This morning I sent two men to examine the water; at 1( they returned and confirmed the report of the Natives, that the river was impracticable. We, consequently, immediately set to work, erected a scaffold for the canoes and ‘placed them under a shade of branches to screen the gum from the sun; such other articles as we could not carry along, we buried in the ground. This was all done in the presence of the Indians.
This morning we made a second cache of such articles as we should absolutely require upon our return, but this was done unxnown to the Nalives, as our acquaintance with them was
rather too slight to merit implicit confidence. By 5 A.M. all
was ready and each took charge of his own package, weighine about eighty pounds, of indispensable necessaries. The Ol Chief assured us that we could not suffer from want among the Askettihs, and that we should be there in a couple of night, The men hearing this, believed it and thought it a great hard. ship to carry an overplus of provisions, and therefore insiste on leaving part of their charge ; but to this I would not consent k
and we started.
The path which we followed was aiong the declivity of moun tains and across many ravines, where we experienced a gooi deal of fatigue and disagreable walking; yet, generally speaking, we were much better off than we had reason to expect. At sun: set we encamped on the side of a small river. Mr. Stuart an myself, still indulging the fond hopes of discovering an opening which would enable us to make use of the canoes, went to visi the main river which we found, as we were made to expeti,
p their mi:
L had over
impass mense not eve
Fine this m countr} our fee but few stopped it, indi observe or sulp withar All at Askettih alTOWS | but upo
shook h:
our inter
promisin encamprr of the me 0 late, chief wh us and | into syru] beaver sk:
These I village. ( understoo (anoes” :
> miles, or the n we shouli id have more een very hot ighest marks,
water; at {0 itives, that the ediately set to 1 them under an; such other in the ground.
articles as we t this was done vith them was
By 5 AM, al Î
kage, weighire hries.
want among ouple of nights it a great hardrefore insisted
uld not consent à
clivity of moun:
brienced à go0 erally speaking, expect. Atsun Mr. Stuart ani ring an opening es, went to visit ade to expett
The Oh |
impassable. The channel was deep, cut through rocks of immense height and forming eddies and gulfs which canoes could not even approach with safety.
Fine, but hot weather; we passed several long and steep hills this morning. In some parts, the road was through a lev el” country, but generally full of pointed stones which greatly hurt our feet; a few green spots could be observed here and there, but few or no trees. About 10 A.M. being tired and thirsty, we stopped near a rock which, from the brushwood at the foot of 1, indicated the vicinity of water. Entering this thicket we observed a substance something like borax, which had a saline or sulphurous taste; a hole being dug it was slowly filled up with a nauseous liquid of which, however, we drank.
All at once, and when we least expected a surprise, seven Askettihs presenied themselves before us with their bows and arrows in readiness for an attack, believing us to be enemies, but upon coming nearer, and discovering from appearances | their mistake, they laid by their weapons, joined our party and shook hands. We could not, however, understand one another, our interpreter being ahead, but they accompanied us until we | had overtaken him. He spoke to them and they went away, promising to return with provisions in the evening to our encampment.
of the men, being much fatigued, were displeased at our going solate. Soon after, our new friends, accompanied by our o!d chief who had gone ahead to the lodges of these people, joined us and brought different kinds of roots, wild onions formed into syrup, excellent dried salmon, and some berries, also a few beaver skins which were of a reddish colour.
These Indians say that the sea is about ten nights from their village. One of the old men, a very talkative fellow and, as we understood, à great warrior, had been to the sea and saw “great canoes” and white men. He observed that the chiefs of the
We went on and encamped about sunset; some
1 Au Mon-
Saline source.
One who
saw the great canoes.
white men were well dressed and very proud, for, continued he,
getting up and clapping his two hands upon his hips, then striding about the place with an air of importance, “ this is the way they go.”
Done This morning, lost some time mending our shoes. We fire several shots to show the Natives the effects of our guns, and set out at five accompanied by all the Natives with two horses: three more horsemen soon joined our party. I asked for one of the horses in order to carry part of our voyage, this the owners declined and left us. Yesterday our guides carried our bundles, but to-day they excused themselves saying they were too tired
Shaw’s We encamped at a considerably large river which flows from
River the right and which we called Shaw's River. Here we expected to find a band of Indians who, being alarmed at our approach, took to their heels; some of the others went in search of them.
En — The country through which we passed to-day is the most savage one can imagine, y :t we were in a beaten path and always in sight of the river, which we could not however approach, asits iron bound banks had a very forbidding appearance.
The Indians who went to look out for those who had run away returned and informed us that the fugitives were waiting for our arrival at the next forks. Last night, some of the Natives, having remarked that we were not white men but enemies in disguise, gave offence to our old Chief and a serious altercation took place in consequence. They stated that his tribe were their natural enemies and that some of his young men had made war upon them in the Spring. This he readily admitted, but observed that these were foolish young men who escaped without his knowledge. Seeing that the debate was
growing warm, we interposed and the argument ended amicably.
Then the Old Ghief sent couriers ahead to inform the Natives that we were not enemies; not co be alarmed at our appearante
and t recom Hav our m had rad strangé while 4 one of muzzle some N such m and per Wher coats 0 position Chief ha himint on the o the Ask appearar which at our Chi animatio people ar nations.
When their cam immediat Opposite t defence ir began to « hands wit
| haranguir
and to meet us without arms, at the same time he strongly recommended to us to be on our guard.
Having shaved we dressed in our best apparel and resumed our march, followed by our retinue of yesterday, but which had recruited as we went along. Having halted, one of the
ontinued he, , hips, then ‘ this is the
s. We fire strangers took our interpreter’s gun through curiosity, and, ur guns,anl JM while examining it, raised the cock and touched the trigger; | two horses; one of our men having observed him in time, threw up the ed forone of À Luzzle as he shot was going off and thus saved the lives of is the owners some Nu ves who otherwise would have received the contents ; à | our bundles, such misfortune would have at once put an end to our journey ere too tired. and perhaps to our lives.
ch flows from When we came to the Forks, the chief men, dressed in iheir oficiat ree we expected coats of mail, advanced to meet us in order to know our dis- {ln y our approach, positions before we could be admitted into their camp. Our'"* earch of them. Chief harangued them in his own language; they answered he most savage him in theirs, and we were obliged to employ three interpreters
nd always in on the occasion to settle the affair. These ambassadors are of pproach, as its the Askettih nation; they looked manly and had real:y the
ce. D cppearance of warriors. They seemed to speak with a fluency
who had run which attracted a kind of attention indicative of applause, and
were waiting our Chief conveyed our sentiments and wishes with great
some of the animation. He assured the Askettih nation that we were good
«white men but Æ people and had nothing to do with the quarrels of Indian
and a serious nations.
tated that his When the conference was over, the ambassadors returned to
e of his young their camp, running as fast as their legs could carry them. We
his he readily immediately followed and encamped on the right bank directly
ung men Who opposite the village, being the best position we could find for
he debate was defence in case of necessity. The Indians, without loss of time,
hded amicably. À began to cross over in their wooden canoes, and I had to shake
m the Natives hands with over one hundred of them, while the Old Chief was pur appearant 1} haranguing them about our good qualities, wishing, of course,
some to accompany us part of the journey. In the mean time 24 surt we spared no pains to impress upon their minds the numberless and lin advantages which all the nations in that quarter would deriv with b: from an open communication with the white people. The the As Indians brought us plenty of fish, roots and berries. The mou. It wa tains are still high and covered with snow; the river, we hal voyage the pleasure to understand, is navigable from this place. accept re Bad weather this morning and we incrlged ourselves longer could 0 ae than usual in bed. The watch having gone to rest at day light, was im] Chief, the the other who took his place did not pay due attention and we the hear onto had the mortification soon after to miss the Old Chief, his coun. Indians pandon try man the pilot and our Tahowtin interpreter. These useful put the : men insinuated more than once their intention of leaving us relish th being afraid to continue. They behaved well, and I have reason nothing to regret that they did not give me an opportunity of paying MW wait for them for their services, but I hope to meet them again on our rapid. 7 return. ammuni!
Here we are, in a strange country, surrounded with dangers, out of ou and difficulties, among numberless tribes of savages who never As 500 saw the face of a white man; however, we shall endeavourto peared, w make the best of it Some of the Indians who had joined x and we 5 yesterday forenoon and whom we are now happy ‘6 acknow. D not there. ledge as oid acquaintances, drew, at my request, a chart of the Æ augmente country from this to the sea. By this sketch, the navigation BP of the Na seems still very bad and difficult ; at some distance to the eat miles and there is another large river which runs parallel with this to the ÆS canoe. sea (1). conductor Portified After obtaining the information required, we prevailed upos Bat their pl Motropolis. the Indians to ferry us over to the village ; having employel BB had left t]
We had dress the sl
but one canoe which had to make three trips, this took upa considerable time. The village is a fortification of 100 feet by
(1) Near Li
() The North branch of the Columbia River.
he mean time, he numberless would derive , people. The es. The moun.
river, we had s place.
arselves longer st at day light, tention and we Chief, his coun- These useful of leaving us, d I have reason anity Of paying ‘M again ON our
d with dangers, ages who never Il endeavour to o had joined x ppy ‘© acknowr it, a chart of the | the navigation ance to the easl with this to the
» prevailed upoi having employel , this took upa on of 100 feet by}
94 surrounded by palisade eighteen feet high, slanting inward and lined with a shorter row which supports a shade, covered with bark, constituting the dwellings ; this is the Metropolis of the Askettih nation (1).
It was not without difficulty we procured a canoe here for our voyage ; the Indians after bargaining a good while consented to accept a file and a kettle in exchange ; but of provisions, we could only procure thirty dried salmon. After so long a stay I was impatient to be off, and ordered the canoe to be loaded with the heaviest packages ; then Mr. Stuart, one of the men and two Indians embarked, but the Indians, finding the canoe overloaded, put the man ashore and continued with Mr. Stuart. I did not relish this arrangement on accountof my friend, but he thought nothing of it himself, having merely observed that he would wait for us within a short distance or at the foot of the first rapid. The other men had to carry their own things and the ammunition, the last article we considered too precious to risk out of our sight.
As soon as the canoe had doubled the first point and disappared, we set off and walked hard in order to join Mr. Stuart and we soon arrived at the place appointed, but the canoe was not there. Alarmed for Mr. Stuart’s safety, I continued with augmented speed all along the river side, followed by a number of the Natives, and it was only after travelling a distance of ten miles and coming to an Indian encampment that I overtook the canoe. Mr, Stuart could not make himself understood to his conductors, and was therefore under the necessity of going on at their pleasure. About dark, Mr. Quesnel came up with us, he had left the men encamped two miles behind.
We had seen some of these Indians before. The Askettih dress the same as the Atnahs ; they are civil but would not
ns
(1) Near Lilloet.
178 SIMON FKASER’S
part with their provisions without difficulty. They have à variety of roots, some of which taste like potatoes and are ex. cellent. Their bows and arrows are neat; their mats with which they cover their shades are made of different materials such as grass, watap or pine roots. We observed several Eur. pean artieles among them, particularly a new copper tea kettle, and a gun of a large size which are probably of Russian many.
facture.
This morning the men joined us, of the two canoes the In. dians had, we could obtain but one, it belonged to a sick man wvho accepted of medecines for payment ; it was in bad order and we lost some time in repairingit. At two we got ready, Mr. Stuart with two Indians went in one canoe ; two men went in the other, and I, with the rest, went by land.
16th, Friday.
Upon our departure, strangers having arrived at the camp, we were called back to satisfy their curiosity ; we had to ob, shook hands with them and then resumed our course. About two hours after, we came up with Mr. Stuart ; he waited ow arrivai to inform us that he had passed through several ha and dangerous rapids and that there was a carrying place near; À we had to carry every thing for upward of a mile and ona ver} bad road.
Here we met some of the neighbouring nation called Hakr maugh (1) with these were two of another tribe called Suihonie(? all were exceedingly well dressed in leather and on horseback fl They have a great quantity of shells and blue beads, and w saw among them a broken silver broach such as the Saulteu
The HaKamaugh Indiane,
() Called ‘ Yackamans ” by Mr. Ross Cox in his ‘ Adventures on the Columbi River.’ They inhabit, north of the Columbia River, a country watered by a riftt called by the same name.
(2) Called ‘“ Shoshoné,”” by the sam:, page 143. They inhabit the great plains t! the southward, and are also called Snake Indians, les Serpents.
wear.
place \ Here tribe x retaine unders this co:
in à WC the pu good ac as pilot. this was advanta At thi seen; it of splint with twi returned
the meat) us to hi handso had somd always a
It was men and myself w Indians labour w the right Indians a owed the 4 asked us tanoes ; a
They have à Jes and are ex:
eir mats with ‘rent materials 1 several Euro.
pper tea ketile, Russian mant-
» canoes the In- 1'to a sick man s in bad order o we got ready, ; two men vent là at the camp,wt we had to ob, * course. About ; he waited out bugh several bal
ying place near; à ile and ona ver à
on called Haktalled Suihonie |?
d on horsebatt 1e beads, and wt as the Saulteli
ures on the Columhi try watered by a rivtt
bit the great plains !!
wear, They were kind to us and assisted us at the carrying place with their horses; we put up near their camp.
Here we became acquainted with a man of the Chilkcotin tibe who had left his own country when a boy, but still retained a little of the mother tongue; we made a shift to understand him. He observed that he had been to the sea by this communication, where he had seen men like us who lived in a wooden enclosure upon an island, and who had tents for the purpose of trading with the Natives in furs. He gave us a good account of the navigation and consented to accompany us aspilot. Since the departure of our Tha-how-tin interpreter, this was the only man with whom we could converse to any advantage.
At this place TI saw a shield different from any I had hitherto seen; it was large enough to cover the whole body, composed of splinters of wood like the ribs of stays and neatly inclosed with twine made of hemp. An Indian who had been out hunting returned with a deer he had killed ; we applied for a share of the meat, but he would not part with any. The Chief invited us to his quarters; his son, by his orders, served us upon a handsome mat and regaled us with salmon and roots ; our men had some also, and they procured besides several dogs which is always a favorite dish with the Canadian voyageurs.
It was 7 A.M. before we could get ready.
men and an Indian embarked in the canoes. the others with myself went as usual by land, but not before I had satisfied the Indians who assisted Mr. Stuart yesterday, the price of whose labour was a knife. In the forenoon we stopped in a camp on the right side af the river, at the same time sixteen families of Indians appeared on the opposite bank. The chief, to whom we owed the articles of yesterday and who was then oursteersman, asked us to unload in order to ferry these people over with our canoes ; as we could not well refuse this request, we obeyed
Mr. Stuart, three 17th, Sa-
They honour their birth places,
18th, Sunday.
and thereby lost some time, One of the strangers had a sword of a tremendous size, made of sheet iron.
We set of and continued until sunset, when we encampel, Here a great number of Indians were collected from all quarters through curiosity to see us. We found them civil and friendly, In the course of the day, while walking, 1 observed many piles of sapin near the road which I took for tombs, but our young men informed us that they were birth places, hence it seems that this nation honors the birth places as well as the tombs of their friends with marks of distinction.
It rained all night, and this morning, the bad weather, added to the trouble attending a concourse of strange Indians, prolonged our stay to eight o’clock. Here we had an eye upon à canoe but the Indians, seeing our drift, send it out of the way. Our interpreter who promised yesterday to conduct us to the sea was either sick or pretended to be so ; he would not understand a word and wished to remain. We considered him, in the main, of little consequence, for T had reason to doubt the information he gave us the day before ; our own interpreter having fabricated a little on that occasion.
At 3 P. M. we passed a camp of Natives ; these were poor but generous, and they assisted us. Here we observed a tomb with a canoe turned upon it and near it a dog hung upon a tree. About sunset, we came to a large camp of Indians where we put up for the night ; about the same time Mr. Stuart and his small brigade appeared. He reported that he had passed several bai and dangerous rapidsin the course of the day, our route also was coarse and fatiguing.
The mountuins continue to be high and covered with snow{ll The Indians here are a mixture of the Askettih, and Hacamaugh;
(1) See : Geological Reports 1877-1778, Page 11 of French version. (British
Columbia).
Wards intr
they g since 0 kind 0 which, Rain Hacam:
cording Atthis aud wh West, — the Nati for an a three mi chief wl the road The In some of |
and enjo
some {00 YiZ : à CO mon blan things, w the mour much, After h chief invi where, ass conducted people we and I had made a lor Sun, to thd
had a sword
ve encamped.
n all quarters and friendly.
d many piles ut our young nce it seems the tombs of
reather, added ans, prolonged
upon à Canoe the way. Our , us to the sea not understand
,in the main, 1e information ving fabricatel
were poor but da a tomb with g upon à lree.
s where we pu t and his small sed several bal
our route also
divith snow(l d Hacamaugh;
version. (British
they gave us à siffleu which was the first fresh meat we tasted since our departure, Roots are scarce, but the Indians gather a kind of moss which they make into paste, bake in ovens and which, though black, we found palatable.
Rained last night, and there was a fog in the morning. The Hacamaugh Chief went ahead to prepare the way for us ; according to his account, he was the greatest man of his nation. Atthis place, we saw a great number of snails of different colours and which were the first of the kind I had seen in the North- West.—At 8 À. M. set out divided as yesterday ; a mile below, the Natives ferried us over a large rapid river, and I obtained for an awl a passage in a canoe to the next village, a distance of three miles through strong rapids. This was the village of the chief who had left us in the morning. We were told here that the road ahead was very bad.
The Indians of this village were about four hundred souls, and 4 some of them appeared very old. They live among mountains : andenjoy pure air, are cleanlily inclined and make use of wholesome food. We observed several European articles among them viz : a copper tea kettle, a brass camp kettle, a strip from a common blanket and clothing such as the Cree women weur. These things, we supposed, were brought from our settlements beyond the mountains ; indeed, the Indians make us understand as much.
After having remained some time in the village, the principal chief invited us over the river and received us at the water side, where, assisted by several others, he took me by the arm and conducted me in a moment up the hill to the camp. Here his people were sitting in rows to the number of twelve hundred, and I had to shake hand withthe whole. Thenthe Great Chief made à long harangue, in the course of which he pointed to the Sun, to the four quarters of the World and then to us; he afterwards introduced his father who was old and blind and carried
th, Monday.
better uss of idians.
by another man, who also made a harangue of some length. The on | olà blind man was placed near us, and he often stretched out | both his hands, through curiosity, in order to feel ours. ee | ne The Hacamaugh nation are different, both in language ang sions ! dians. manners, from their neighbours, the Askettihs ; they have many experie chiefs and great men and appear to be good orators, their who a manner of delivery is extremely handsome. We had every less fan reason to be thankful for our reception at this place ; the In. Taha dians showed us every possible attention, and supplied our wants father as much as they could. We had salmon, berries, oil and r'o0ts ati . in abondance, and our men had six dogs (1). Although our tent up was pitched near the camp, we enjoyed entire peace and security ohts during our stay. ER ue Tues- The Indians sang and danced all night; some of our men spoken sn who went to sce them were much amused. We obtained two that our cœerity! WOoden canoes with some difficulty ; the Indians however made upon th no price but accepted of our off: 5. Shortly after, a tumult È name ot arose in the camp while I was writing in the tent I went to At10 the door and observed an elderly man running towards me, but Hénde he was stopped by some others who were making a loud noise. fo I enquired into the cause ; they crowded around me, the Chief batkea spoke, and all were quiet. I then learned that Mr. Quesnel strong «1 having walked in the direction of a canoe that was at some Mises
distance on the beach, the old man in question, who was the owner, thought he was going to lose it.
ascent w tnually One of o siones, à lost. Th ag0, seve steps giv and peris
This affray over, we prepared for our departure. The chief pointed out three elderly men who were to accompany usto the next nation; inthe mean time. I was presented with berries,
(1) Dogs were the most useful animals of these regions ; the voyageurs considered them a great relish ; the small kinds only were eaten, the large dogs were of another race, and had a rank taste. Dogs are much used by the western Indians for carrying purposes and can drag from one hundred to one hundred and fifty pounds. Harman says he has known a pair of large dogs to drag 1,000 %& for a short distance.
roots, oil in abundance. Notwithstanding these tokens of friend-
length. The ship, the impression which the late disturbance made on my tretched out mind still remained. However kind savages may appear, I QUEES | know that it is not in their nature to be sincere in their profesanguage and sions to strangers; the respect and attention we generally y have many experience proceed from an idea that we are superior beings orators, their who are not to be overcome; at any rate, it is certain that the Ve had every less familiar we are with them, the better for us. lace ; the In- I showed to the Indians some trading articles and asked for ied our wants leather, but none was brought; I gave the chief a large knife oil and roots and an awl, for which he heartily thanked us. I gave also a ugh our tent few trinkets to an Indian of a different nation in order that he e and securily À might show them to his friends. These Forks, the Indians call Re er Camchin, and are formed by a large river, which is the same e of our men spoken of so often by our friend the Old Chief. From an idea e obtained two that our friends of the Fort des Prairies department are established however made D upon the source of it,among the mountains, we gave it the îter, à tumull name ot Thompson River.
nt. [ went (0 At 10 A.M., we embarked ; now all our people were once more
wards me, but in canoes. Our three new guides, the Great Chief, a little fellow ; a loud n0i D from whom we received much attention, and some others eme j me, the Chiel barked to keep us company. Aided by heavy rapids and a t Mr. Quesnel strong current we, in a short time, came to a portage. Here the t was ai some canoes and baggage were carried up a very steep hill; the , who was the ascent was dangerous, stones and fragments of rocks were con-
tinually giving away from our feet and rolling off in succession.
One of our men was much hurt by stumbling on one of these Jackass stones, and the kettle he carried bounced into the river and was DURE lost. The Indians informed us that at this place, some years
ago, several of their people, having lost their balance from the
steps giving away, rolled down to the river in the same way
and perished. We saw many graves covered with small stones
ire. The chi company US L() sd with berries,
oyageurs considered dogs were of another Indians for carryins y pounds. Harmon distance.
21st, Wednesday.
Disaster in a rapid.
all over the place (1). I have almost forgot to mention that, on our arrival at the carrying place, one of our canoes sank an some of our things were lost, but the crew was saved and the canoe recoverd (2).
On the other side of the River, Mr. Stuart. who visited the rapids, observed many kinds of trees different from those we had hitherto seen; he also observed a mineral spring, the water of which was clear and of a strong taste, and the scum of a greenish colour. The mountains continued high and their summits were covered with snow. Two Indians from our last encampment overtook us with a piece of iron we had forgotten. We considered this as an extraordinary degree of honesty and attention, particularly in this part of the world. The chief and his friends went away the moment we had encamped.
Early this morning the men made a trip with two ofthe canoes and part of the things, which they carried more than a mile and returned for the rest. I sent Mr. Quesnel to have charge of the baggage in the absence of the men. About this time Indians appeared on the opposite bank; our guides
harangued them from our side, both parties singing and dancing all the time. After breakfast, the men renewed their work, and Mr. Stuart and I remained in the tent writing.
Soon after we were alarmed by the loud bawling of our guides whom we saw running full speed towards us and making signs that our people were lost in the rapid. As we could not account for this misfortune, we immediately ran over to the
(1) This locality is now called ‘ Jackass Mountain,” the gold seekers of many years after having here lost numbers of mules, which rolled down the precipice with their loads.
(2) For a description of the country and navigation of the river from Lytton, at the mouth of the Thompson, to Boston Bar and Yale, sce : Mayne’s ‘ Four yearsin British Columbia. ”’—Geological reports, 1871-1872, page 23, and those of 1877-1878.— Milton and Cheadle : ‘The North-West Passage by Land.”?
the rive ashore | the othe directed Atad LaChap baggage suppose still cor appearai and keef We h:
Dalaire, and, on « weak ar after lea
heinforrr
carrying
themselv
he was h
«In th
» foremar »in the ce » the can the othe » situatiot »sioned b » Canoe al » [had sw
ntion that, on 1068 sank and aved and the
10 visited the from those we ing, the water d the scum of igh and their from our last had forgotten, f honesty and
The chief and !
nped.
vith two of the d more than a uesneli to have n. About this k; our guides ng and dancing eir work, and
awling of our us and making we could no ran over to the
bold seekers of many n the precipice with
iver from Lytton, at Ene’s ‘ Four years in hose of 1877-1878.—
paggage where we found Mr. Quesnel all alone. We inquired of him about the men; at the same time we discovered that three of the canoes were missing, but he had seen none of them, nor did he know where they were. On casting our view across ihe river, we remarked one of the canoes and some of the men ashore there. From this incident we had reason to believe that the others were either ahead or had perished. We immediately directed our speed to the iower end of the rapid.
At a distance of four miles or so, we found one of our men, LaChapelle, who had carried two loads of his own share of the baggage that far; he could give us no acceunt ofthe others, but supposed they were following him with their proportion. We still continued, and at last growing fatigued, and seeing no appearance of the canoes, we considered it advisable to return and keep along the bank of the river.
We had not proceeded far when we observed one of our men, Dalaire, walking slowly from the bank with a stick in his hand aud, on coming up to him, we discovered that he was so wet, so weak and exhausted that he could scarcely speak. However, after leaning a little while on his stick and recovering his breath, heinformed us that, unfortunately, he and the others, finding the carrying place too long and the canoes to heavy, took it upon themselves to venture down by water ; that the canoe in which he was happened to be the last in setting out.
«In the first cascade » said he « our canoe filled and upset ; the » foreman and the steersman got on the outside, but I, who was » in the center, remained a long while underneath upon the bars ; s the canoe still drifting was throwninto a smoothy current and the other two men finding an opportunity sprang from their situation into the water and swam ashore. The impulse occa- » sioned by their weight in leaping off, raised one side of the » Canoe above the surface and, having still my recollection though » had swallowed a quantity of water, I seized the critical mo-
» ment to disentangle myself and I gained, though not without |! » struggle, the top of the canoe. By this tüne I found myself » again in the middle of the stream; here 1 continued astride the » canoe, humouring the tide as well as [ could with my bodyt » preserve my balance, and, although I scarcely had time to look » about me, I had the satisfaction to observe the two other canoe » ashore near an eddy and their crews safe among the rocks.
«“ In‘ the second or third cascade, (for TI do not recollect which) » the canoe plunged from a great height into an eddy below, » and striking with great violence against the bottom, splitin | » two. Here I lost my recollection, which however I soon re. » covered and was surprised to find myself on a smooth, easy eur. » rent with only one half of the canoe in my arms. In thi » condition I continued through severai cascades until the strean » carried me into an eddy at the foot of a high and steep rock. » Here, my strength being exhausted, I lost my hold, a large » wave washed me from off the wreck among the rocks and an. » other, still larger, hoisted me clear on shore, where I remained, » you readily believe, some time motionless. At length, recor- » ering à little of my strength I crawled up among the rocks and » found myself once more safe on firm ground just as you see»
Here he finished his melancholy tale, then pointed to the place ‘f his landing which we went to see and were lost in astotish.
ent, not only at his escape from the waves, but also at his J |
surage and perseverance in affecting a passage up through: place which appeared to us a perfect precipice. Continuing our course along the bank, we found that he had drifted three miles among rapids, cascades, whirlpools, &c., all inconceivably dangerous. ù Mr. Quesnel, feeling extremely anxious and concerned, left his charge and joined us, two men only remaïined on shore car rying the baggage and they were as ignorant as we were of the fate of the others. Sometime after, upon advancing towards the
à hundred 4
Camp, V men w} the ever in extric showed this tryi
AI] sa.
as usual canoes a Our gui village w
E dition th
course of in the ev
Our gu employed several pc the men « and fatig village, w were gend
The nu
came upor wo men indiscretio voluntaril beyond tl village.
next villag we had pas assured us
(1) Andersoi
1 not without | found myself ed astride the h my body to d time to Look > other canoes the rocks.
collect which) n eddy below, | ottom, split in ever Î soon reooth, easy eur.
arms. In this ntilthe strean | and steep rock.
y hold, a large e rocks and anere Ï remained, t length, recovo the rocks and hst as you See.
hted to the place ost in astotisir
e up throughi Continuing our
ted three miles onceivably dar
concerned, lelt kd on shore Car we were of the ing towards the
M hundred and ten.
| but also at his ?
amp, we picked up all the men 6n our side of the river ; the men who had been thrown ashore on the other side joined us in the evening. They informed us that the Indians assisted greatly in extricating them from their difficulties ; indeed, the Indians showed us every possible attention during our misfortune on this trying occasion.
All safe again, we had the happiness of encamping together as usual with our baggage. We, however, had lost one of our canoes and another we found too heavy to carry such a distance. Our guides asked permission to go and sleep at the Indian village which was below the rapids, this was granted on con-
Édition they should return early in the morning. Mr. Stuart, in
course of the day, saw a snake as thick as his wrist. Small rain in the evening.
Our guides returned as they had promised. Four men were employed in bringing down the canoes by water; they made several portages in the course of the undertaking, the rest of the men carried the baggage by land. When this troublesome and fatiguing business was executed, we crossed over to the village, where we were received with loud acclamations and were generously entertained.
The number of men at this place, I found to be about one The chief of the Forks and our Little Fellow came upon our arrival and introduced us to the others. I sent two men to visit the rapids, but the Indians knowing of our indiscretion of the other day, and dreading a like attempt, voluntarily transported our canoes over land to a little river beyond tt : rapids (1)}) We encamped at some distance from the village. The Chief went ahead to inform the Indians at the next village of our approach; he promised to accompany us till we had passed all the dangerous places, and the Little Fellow assured us he would not leave us before our return.
(1) Anderson River.
22nd, Thursday.
23rd, Friday.
The Nailgemugh Indians.
The Indians having invited us to the village, Mr. Quesnel and
some of the men went, and were entertained to their satisfaction |
with plenty of singing and dancing and received, moreover, à present of three dogs. which were most acceptable at this time as we depended wholly upon the Natives for provisions ; they it is true, furnished us with the best they could procure, but that best was not generally palatable (1).
Rained this morning. One of the men was sick and we per. ceived that, one way or other, our people were getting out of order. They preferred walking to going by water in wooden canoes, particularly after their late sufferings in the rapids. I therefore embarked myself in the bow of a canoe and we. down several rapids. We met some Indians and waïited for the arrival of our people who had gone by land; walking was difficult, the country being rxceedingly rough and uneven; crossing a carrying place, one of th2 men fell and broke his canoe almost to pieces.
The NMatives from below came this far with two canoes to 1
assist us; they were probably sent by our friends who went ahead. In one of the rapids, Mr. Stuarts canoe filled and wa nearly lost; we soon after arrived at a camp of the Natives, where we landed for the night. They numbered about one hundred and seventy and call themselves Naïilgemugh; we met with a hearty welcome and were entertained with singing and dancing, &c.
The Naïlgemugh nation are better supplied with the never: saries of life than any of those we have hitherto seen; their robes are of beaver, &c. We visited a tomb near the camp; it is built of boards sewed together, and about four feet square; the top is covered with cedar bark and loaded with stones. Near
(1) Berries are, to this day, the staple food of the Indians from Lytton, downwardt; see: Geological Report 1871-1872, page 69.
it, on a of leat very hc account This : Sent soi going à Mr. Stu:
camp of steep hi] in Carry the mid another, his padd tie even:
about u, were led The In:
in numbe with som treated w excellent the Nativ order to dropped d The Ch but his pe we have sl return I immediate pleased v going a CO and we m
Quesnel and r satisfaction , moreover, à at this time, isions ; they, | procure, but
and we pergetting out of er in wooden the rapids. I noe and we.
waited for the . walking was and uneven:
and broke his
two canoes lo ds who went filled and wa f the Natives, bred about one
ugh; we me h singing and
ith the nece:
rto seen; their r the camp;it
r feet square; th stones. Near
Lytton, downwards;
it, on a scaffold, are two canoes, and à pole from which strips of leather, baskets, &c.,are suspendeï. The weather is generally very hot in the day time, but at night it is commonly cold on account of the neighbourhood of eternal snows.
This morning we traded two canoes for two calico bed gowns. rt tl Sent some men to visit the rapids and set out at 8 A.M. After going a mile, we came to afcarrying place of 800 yards where Mr. Stuart had a Mer: Alt. 1260 57; we then passed a small camp of Indians without stopping and came to a discharge with steep hills at both ends, where we experienced some difficulty in carrying the things We ran down the canoes, but, about the middle of the rapids, two of them struck against one another, and one of them lost a piece of its stern, the steersman his paddle ; after repairing the damages we continued and in the evening arrived at an Indian village. The Natives flocked about us and invited us to pass the night with them, and we were led to the camp which is at some distance up the hill.
The Indians of this encampment were upward of five hundred in number ; we found our friend the Chief, and the Little Fellow with some of our acquaintances from above, and all were well treated with fresh salmon, hazel-nuts and some other nuts of an excellent quality. The small pox was in the camp and several of the Natives were marked with it. We fired several shots in order to show the Indians the use of our guns, some of them dropped down at the report.
The Chief of the Camshine returnec this morning to his home, 25th, Sunbut his people continued with us. This man is the greatest chief Fe we have seen, he behaved uncommonly well towards us, and in return Ï made him a present of a large silver broach which he immediately fixed on his head, and seemed exceedingly well pleased with our attention. We embarked at 5 A. M.; after going a considerable distance, our Indians ordered us ashore
and we made a portage. Here we were obliged to carry among Diffcult pass. ,
loose stones in the face of a steep hill between two precipices. Near the top, where the ascent was perfectly perpendicular, one of the Indians c'imbed to the summit and by means of a lope pole drew us up one after the other. This work took three hours, then we continred our course up and down hills and along the : of mountains where hanging rocks and pro.
the edge of the bank of the river, made the ni à3 to render it, at times, diMcult even for one
steep G::'ivit:
jecting passage sû person to pass sidew us.
Many of the Natives from the last camp who accompanied us were of the greatest service on this intricate occasion. They went on boldly with heavy loads in places where we were obliged to hand our guns from one to another, and where the greatest precaution was required in order to pass even singly and free from encumbrance.
At about 6 P. M., we encamped at a rapid. On our arrival, I despatched M. Stuart and one of the men to examine the rapid.
From the place of encampment, we observed an Indian on the cpposite shore fishing salmon with a dipping net; our Indians having procured one took five salmons which, devided among forty persons, was little indeed, but better than nothing.
This morning, all hands employed as yesterday : we had to pass over huge rocks assisted by the Indians. Soon after we met ae M. Stuart and the man who had passed the night on the top ofa
26th, Monday.
ly wild
souatrÿe mountain and in sight of our smoke ; they reported that the
navigation was absolutely impracticable. As for the road by land, we could scarcely make our war with even only our guns. I have been for a long period among the Rocky Mountains, but have never seen any thing like this country. It is so wild that I cannot find words to describe our situation at times. We had to pass where no human being should venture; yet in those places there is a regular footpath impressed, or rather indented upon the very roc} 5y frequent travelling. Besides this, steps
Ladder paths.
which poles h with tv immens and tree but we, experie follow t ln th whose c ferried u are of t] bouring The H ‘hey wer them. I] them dov mercy of rocks, mi This m
| their sing
4s usual, of our ba:
lerday. / one of the had to lo embarked small cam name of t between t} we were green and
(1) Spazum Ocean ?” by R
> precipices, idicular, one ins of a lors three hours, nd along the ‘ks and pro.
er, made the ven for one
ompanied us casion. They ere We were nd where the ren singly and
our arrival, I ine the rapid.
ndian on the our Indians vided among pthing.
y : we had to after we met on the top ofa rted that the road by land, v our guns. I ountains, but so wild that mes. We hal yet in those ther indented des this, steps
which are formed like a ladder or the shrouds of a ship, by poles hanging to one another and crossed at certain distances with twigs, the whole suspended from the top to the foot of immense precipices and fastened at both extremities to stones and trees, furnish a safe and convenient passage to the Natives ; but we, who had not had the advantage of their education and experience, were often in imminent danger when obliged to follow their example.
In the evening, we came in sight of a camp of the Natives whose chief with some others crossed over to receive us. They ferried us over and we were kindly entertained. These Indiar are of the same nation as the last, but some men of a nei''. bouring nation, called Achinrow were present.
The Hacamaugh promised us canoes for the next day, anf :s hey were above the rapid, some of the young men went :or them. It being impossible to bring them by land, or to work them down by water, they were turned adrift and left to the mercy of the current, which, passing among many shoals and rocks, might have broken them to pieces on their way down.
This morning the Indians entertained us with a specimen of
L their singing and dancing. We set out at 6 A. M. accompanied,
asusual, by many of the Natives who assisted in carrying part of our baggage ; the route we had to follow was as bad as yesterday. At 9, we came to the canoes which were sent adrift ; one of them was broken and the other much damaged, and we had to lose some time in repairing them. Some of the men embarked with the things and the rest continued by land to a small camp of Indians, consisting of about sixty persons. The name of the place is Spazum (1) and is the boundary line between the Hacamaugh and Achinrow nations. Here, as usual, we were hospitably entertained with fresh salmon, boiled, green and dried berries, oil and onions.
(1) Spazum was an old Indian Chief who gave his name to the place. Ocean *” by Rev. M. Grant.
‘ Ocean to
. Seeing tombs of a curious construction at the Forks on the
ring Opposite side, [ asked permission of the chief to go and pay them
PE à visit ; this he readily granted and accompanied us himself These tombs are superior to anything of the kind I saw among savages ; they are about fifteen feet long and of the form of chest of drawers. Upon the boards and posts, are beasts and birds carved in a curious but rude manner, yet pretty well propor tioned. These monuments must have cost the workmen much time and labour, as they must have been destitute of proper tooks for their execution ; around the tombs was deposited all the property of the deceased. When we were ready for our departure, our guides observed that we had better pass the night atthe camp, and that they would accompany us in the morning. Sen. sible from experience that a hint from these people is equal to a command, and that they would not follow had we decline, we remained.
28th, Wed- We set out at 5, our things in the canoes as yesterday and w
“sd continued by land. After much trouble by land and by watu for eight miles, we came 10 a carrying place where we were obliged to leave our canoes and to proceed on foot with our baggage. Some of the Achinrow nation apprised of our approach, came to meet us with roasted salmon. At this place, whik waiting for some of our people who were behind, I examined à net of a different construction from any I had hitherto seen, I was made of thread of the size of cod lines; the meshes were sixteen inches wide, and the net eight fathoms long; with this the Natives catch deer and other la!ge animals.
The Achin- Continued and crossed à small river on a wooden bridge.
FRE Here the main river tumbles from rock to rock between precipices with great violence. At 11 A.M. we arrived at the finit village of the Achinrow nation, where we were received with à
much kindness as if we had been lost relations. Neat mat
were spread for our reception, and plenty of salmon, in wooden
dishes, place is in lang They h:
and fro in Cana We
their w« tools, at lately, t gallery and arr AtTE part of c cavern i alittle & like Ami thick, e inches ; receive L covered :
there is & on this s About hundyed by mean:
atthis pl course, tc ones whil polished.
spears an
(1) “Spy
Forks on the and pay them dd us himself I saw among the form ofa easts and birds y well propor.
rorkmen much of proper tools posited all the our departure, he night atthe morning. Sen.
ople is equal to ad we declined,
sterday and we and by water where we were foot with our )f our approach, s place, whik d, I examined a therto seen. Il e meshes were ong; with this,
ooden bridge.
k between pre.
ved at the first eceived with a
ns. Neat mai!
1on, in wooden
dishes, was placed before us. The number of people at this place is about one hundred and forty. This nation is different in language and manner from the other nations we had passed. They have rugs made from the wool of Aspai (1) or wild goat and from dogs hair, which are as good as the wool rugs found in Canada. We observed that the dogs were lately shorn.
We saw few or no Christian goods among them, but, from their workmanship in wood, they must be possessed of good tools, at least for that purpose. Having th2mselves arrived here lately, they had not as yet constructed their shades, but had a gallery of smoked boards upon which they slept. Their bows and arrows are very neat,
At 1 P.M., we renewed our march, the Natives still carrying part of our baggage; at the first point, we observed a remarkable cavern in a rock, which we found to be 50 feet déep by 35 wide ; alittle above it, is an excellent house 46 by 32 and constructed
like American frame houses ; the planks are three or four inches Frame
thick, each plank overlapping the adjoining one a couple of inches ; the posts, which are very strong and rudely carved, receive the cross beams ; The walls are eleven feet high and covered with a slanting roof. On the opposite side of the river, there is a considerable village, with houses similar to the one on this side.
About 4 P. M., we arrive at a camp containing about one hundsed and fifty souls. Here we had plenty of salmon cooked by means of hot stones in wooden vessels. Having understood at this place that the river was navigable to the sea, we had, of course, to provide canoes if possible. We saw a number of new ones which seemed to have been hollowed with fire and then polished. The arms of these Indians consist of bows and arrows, spears and clubs, or horn powmagans. We saw very littie or no
(1) “Spye.”’ Harmon.
leather, so that large animals must be scarce. Their ornements are the same as those of the Hacamaugh nation : shells of different kinds, shell beads, brass made into pipes hanging from the neck or across the shoulders, bracelets of large brass wire, and some of horn. Theirhats, which are made of wattap, have broad rims and diminish gradually to the top; some make use of cedar bark painted different colours, resembling ribbon for hats, Both sexes are stoutly built and some of the men are handsome, but T cannot say so much of the women, who seem to be their husbands’ slaves, for, in the course of their dances, I remarked that the men were in the habit of pillaging them from one an: other. Our Little Fellow was presented with another mans wife. There was a new tomb at this place, supported on carved posts about two feet from the ground ; the sculptures were neatly finished and the posts were spangled over with bright shells which shined like mercury, but the interior of the tomb
emitted an abominable smell.
Whitomen The Natives informed us that people like us had come from from below. , ; below to the Bad Rock, where the rapid terminates, at a little distance from the village, and they showed us marks indentel in the rocks which they had made, but which, by the bye, seemed to us to be nothing but natural marks. In the evening, four men went off in canoes to inform the people below of our visit and intentions.
29th, Lost some time this morning in looking out for canoes, but ue could not procure any. We embarked about 9 A. M. some of us with the Indians, and some without, just as best suited the Indians. The river here is wide, with a strong current and some rapids ; both sides are adorned with pine trees : the mountains are still high and covered with snow. About 10, we passed à vil'age which was the residence of the last Indians. At two, we came to a camp on an island containing about one hundred and thirty souls ; here we had plenty of salmon, oil, roots and
raspber losing à Natives At fiv souls, E their ca:
sequenc ofthe I next MO] inclined sturgeon flavour, The In interior ; hair of a with whi hair, rug
angles a
fishing n in length handles « shaped li} garet ”, v more thai It was departure hundred $ might, sai place see surprised iuterior, a through t} ducted us
ir ornements ls of different rom the neck ire, and some ve broad rims use of cedar for hats.
ire handsome, em to be their 8, I remarked | from one atanother man's rted on carved alptures were er with bright or of the tomb
aad come from ites, at a little narks indented h, by the bye, n the evening, e below of our
or canoes, but M. some of us est suited the rent and some the mountains D, we passed à s. At two, We e hundred and oil, roots and
raspberries. The Natives amused us with dancing, and after losing a couple of hours we went on, followed by several of the Natives.
At five, we came to another camp of one hundred and seventy souls. Here the Natives who had favored us with a passage in their canoes thus far left us and went home ; we were, in consequence, obliged to encampin order to wait for the convenience ofthe Indians of this place who promised to help us on the next morning. They were extremely civil, so much so that they inclined us to doubt their sincerity : they gave us plenty of
sturgeon, oil and roots, not, however, of the best quality or flavour,
interior ; their heads and faces are extremely flat, their skin and hair of a reddish cast, but this cast is owing to the ingredients with which they besmear their bodies. They make, with dogs hair, rugs with stripes of different colours, crossing at right angles and resembling, at a distance, Highland plaid. Their fishing nets are of large twine and have handles of twenty feet in length. Their spears, which are of horn, have also wooden handles of great length. Here we saw a large copper kettle shaped like a jar, and a large English hatchet stamped ‘ Sargaret ”, with the figure of a crown. The river at this place is more than two miles broad and is interspersed with islands.
departure ; at eleven we cameto a camp containing near four hundred souls; here we saw a man from the sea, which we might, said he, be able to see next day. The Indians of this place seem dirty and have an unpleasant smell; they were surprised at seeing men different from Indians coming from the iuterior, and made themselves extremely disagreable to us through their curiosity and attention. The Indians who conducted us during the forenoon returned with their canoes, and,
The Indians in this quarter are rather fairer than those in the The Na-
tives,
It was 7 A. M. before we could procure canoes and take our 30th, Friday.
nm
it being some time before we could replace them, it was two o’clock before we embarked.
Continued our course with a strong current for about nine miles where the river expands into a lake. Here we saw seals and a large river ‘oming from the left (1) and a round mountain ähead which the Natives called Stremotch (2?) After sunset, we encamped upon the right side of the river. At this place, the trees were remarkably large, cedars five fathoms in circum. ference and proportionate height. Musquitoes were in clouds. We had nothing to eat; the Natives, who always gave us plenty of provisions in their villages, but seldom allowed us to carry anything away, had followed us in numbers to this place and were all as destitute as ourselves. Though at à great dis tance from home, they carried no arms about them, from which we inferred that they had full confidence either in our goodnes or in their numbers.
Juus Foggy weather this mornin;y;; clear at 4, and we embarkel, ist, Satur- The banks of the river are low and covered with wood; the 7 current is slack, and rugged mountains surround us. At 8 AM, we arrived at a large village; after shaking hands witha crowd, the chief invited us to his house and served us with fish and berries ; our Indians were also treated with fish, berries and dried oysters in large troughs. Our Hacamaugh, commonly callel Littie Fellow, so often mentioned and who had been so useful to us all along, had, by this time, assumed an air of consequence from being so long of our party and ranked now with Mr
Stuart, Mr. Quesnel and myself.
The Chief made me a present of a coat of maïito make shoes; for this we may thank our little friend who also received à
() River Coqualla, at the mouth of whic. : .uilt the town of Hope. (2) Mount Baker.
present for wh The descrip giving the wal alarme( what w The I went of but non consente self, The n who hac afterwai appearar
seeing u have see
Their to the o hundred the front the appa except t} posts or diminish
opening 4 man may human fi beasts an
These and the s
it Was lwo
r about nine we saw seals und mountain ter sunset, we his place, the ms in Circumvere in clouds.
gave us plenty ‘d us to carry to this place at a great dis.
mn, from which n our goodness
1 we embarked ith wood, the lus. At8AM,
hands with à
edus with fish |
sh, berries and bmmonly callel been so useful of consequence now with Mr
to make shoes; also received à
Hope.
present of white shells. T gave the Chief in return a calico gown
for which he was thankful.
The Indians entertained us with songs and dances of various descriptions ; the Chief stood in the centre of the dance or ring giving directions while others were beating the drum against
the wall of the house and making a terrible racket.
This noise
alarmed our men who were at a distance and they came to see
what was the cause of it.
The Indians, who had favored us with a passage to this place, went off with their canoes, and we had to look out for others, but none could be had for any consideration ; at last the Chief consented to lend us his large canoe an to accompany us him-
self.
The number of Indians at this place was about Lwo hundred, who had appeared at first view to be fair, but we discovered afterwards that they made use of white paint to alter their real appearance. They evinced no kind of surprise or curiosity at seing us, nor were they afraid of our arms, so that they must
have seen white people before from below.
Their houses are built of cedar planks and, in shape, similar to the one already described ; the whole range, which is six hundred and forty feet long by sixty broad, is under one roof; the front is eighteen feet high and the covering is slanting : all the appartements, which are separated by partitions, are square,
except the chief’s, which is ninety feet long.
In this room, the
posts or pillars are nearly three feet diameter at the base and diminish gradually to the top. In one of these posts is an oval opening answering the purpose of a door through which one
man may crawl in or out.
Above, on the outside, are carved a
human figure as large as life, with other figures in imitation of
beasts and birds.
These buildings have no flooring, the fires are in the center
and the smoke goes out by an opening at the top. The tombs
A house 640 feet
long,
2nd, Sunday.
Trouble with the Indians.
are well finished. TI observed that dogs’ hair was spun with a There These Indians are not
distaff and a spindle as in Europe, and made into rugs. is some red and blue cloth among them. so hospitable as those above, which is probably owing to a scar. city of provisions.
The tide rose about two and à half feet; we cast our nets into the water but took no fish, the current being too strong.
This morning we discovered that the Natives were addict to thieving; they stole a smoking bag from one of our party and we could not prevail upon them to restore it. ‘The dogs in course of the night dragged out from the baggage and damaged many of our things.
L'applied to the Chief in consequence of his promise of yester. day for his canoe, but he paid no attention to my request. I therefore took the canoe and hadit carried to the water side, the Chief got it carried back; we again id hold of it, he still resisted and made us understand that he was not only the greatest of his nation, but equal in force to the Sun. However, as we could not go on without the canoe, we persisted and at last gained our point. The Chief and several of the tribe accompanied us.
At IT A.M., we arrived at a village where we were receive with the usual ceremony of shaking hands, but we were not eutertained as usual. The houses of this place are plain andin two rows. [I received two coats of mail as a present, and will have them made into shoes.
The Indians advised us not to advance any further Natives of the coast or Islanders were wicked and at war with
as the
them and would, consequently, attempt to destroy us. Upon
seeing us slight their advice and preparing to embark, they gathered around the canoe and dragged it out of the water, and then invited us, for the first time, to the principal house of the
village.
Leaving Mr. Quesnel with most of the men to guari f
the can accepte Indians noise I
was int
found
Canoe, Y
diately We tl
friends
and wer aif he of appar changed Little Fe way-chin
hands up water, \
desist an
Procee
river divi
following embarked
ducting 1
several ot
üTOWS,
singing w
aides of th [el The d Eunruly. six Lened him ; @ This wa tonfident
LG
spun With à ‘ugs. There lians are not ng to à sCar.
our nets into
trong.
vere addicted
> of our party The dogs in and damage
mise Of yesterny request. [
water side,the 1h | of it, hestll ;
s not only the un. However, ersisted and at he tribe accom-
were received it we were no!
re plain andi | esent, and will
further as the d at war with troy us. Upol embark, they the water, and
al house of the 4
e men to guarl }
the canoe and baggage, Mr. Stuart with two men and myself accepted the invitation. As soon as we were in the house, the Indians began singing and dancing and making such a terrible noise near the baggage, that Mr. Stuart, suspecting foul play vas interded, went to see what caus d the disturbance. He found that one of the Natives had stolen a jacket out of the canoe, which, however, on application to the Chief, was immediately returned and all was quiet agein.
We then made a motion to embark with the Chief, byt his They seize
friends who did not approve of his going, flocked around him and were embracing him with as much concern and tenderness &if he was never to return. Our followers seeing this scene of apparent distress between the Chief and his connexions, changed their mind and declined going any further. Even our Little Fellow would not embark, saying he was afraid of Kaway-chin or Indians of the sea. Some of the Indians laid violent hands upon the canot and insisted upon taking it out of the water. We paid no notice of their violence, but made them desist and embarked without them.
Proceeding on for two miles, we arrived at a place where the river divides in several channels, when we perceived a canoe following us and we waited for its arrival. One ofthe Indians embarked in our canoe, with a view, as we thought, of conducting us in the right channel, but we soon remarked that several other Indians from the village, armed with bows and arows, spears, clubs, were pursuing us in their canoes, snging war songs, beating time with their paddles upon the sides of the canoes, and making signs and gestures highly inimial. The one who had embarked with us became also very unruly. singing, dancing and kicking up agreat dust: we threat- Lened him and he mended his manners and became quiet.
This was an alarming crisis, but we were not discouraged ; mhe sea.
confident upon our own superiority, at least on water, we con-
mnt
nets
ge
Misquiame
tinued and at last we came in sight of a gulf or bay of the sea ; this, the Indians called Pas-hil-roe (1). It runs in a south-west and north-east direction. In this bay are several high and rocky
islands, whose summits were covered with snow.
On the right shore we noticed a village called by the Natives Misquiame : we directed our course towards it. Our turbulent
passengers conducted us up a small winding river to a small lake
near which the village stood : there we landed, but only found
a few old men and women, the others having fled into the woods on our approach. The fort is 1500 feet in length and 90 feetin breadth. The houses, which are constructed as those mentioned in the other places, are in rows ; one of the Natives, after con. ducting us through all the appartments, desired us to go away, as, other vise, the Indians would be apt to attack us. Aboutths time, those that had followed us from above, arrived.
Having spent an hour looking about and examining the place, we went to embark, but found that the tide had ebbel and left our canoe on dry land, we therefore had to drag i some distance to the water. The Natives seeing our difficulties assumed courage and began to make their appearance from every direction, dressed in their coats af mail and howling like so many wolves, and brandishing their war clubs. We at last got into deep water and embarked ; our turbulent guide no sooner found himself on board again than he began a repetition of his former pranks : he asked for our daggers, for our clothes,in fact for every thing we had. Fully convinced at length of hi 4 unfriendly disposition, we turned him ashore and made him understand, as well as the other who were by this time closing upon us, that if they did not keep attheir distance we wouli
fire upor them.
(0. This wore :8 not very logibly written : it may also be Pas-hii-rou or Pas-bil:
row,
After posite incited had ex] was thc risk, ST prospec altered Indians return 4
Wher back, th again to on shore adopt à t muzzle ©
serious, back to t
The ti contin"’e( encampe extremel long in b them up.
Having embarke where w4 custom to asleep so seemed st
About t village be our depar
y of the sea; Juth-west ani h and rocky
y the Natives Our turbulent 0 à small lake ut only found into the woods and 90 feet in ose mentionei ves, after con us tO gO away, us. Aboutths ved.
examining the ide had ebbel ad to drag i our ditticulties nce from every
owling like 50
We at last got
uide no s00ner epetition of lis our clothes, in at length of hi and made him is time closing nce we wouli
g-hil-rou or Pag-hil-
After this unpleasant affair, we continued until we came op-They re-
turn for
posite the second village. Here, our curiosity would have provisions.
incited us to go ashore, but, reflecting upon the reception we had experienced at the first and the character of the Natives, it was thought neither prudent nor necessary to run any further risk, especially as we were deficient of all provisions and saw no prospect of procuring any in this hostile quarter. We therefore altered our course with theintention of going back to the friendly Indians for a supply, then, if thought proper and expedient, to return and prosecute our design of visiting part of the sea coast.
When we had come opposite the hostile village on our way back, the same fellows who had annoyed us before, advanced again to attack us with a great noise which was echoed by those on shore. They approached so near that we were obliged to adopt a threatening attitude, and had to put them off with the muzzle of our guns. At last, perceiving our determination to be serious, their courage failed, they gave up the pursuit and crossed back to the village.
The tide was now in our favor, the evening was fine and we contined our course with great speed until eleven, when we encamped within six miles of the chiefPs village. The men being extremely tired went immediately to rest, but they were not long in bed before the tide washing upon the encampment roused them up.
Having been disturbed by the overflowing of the tide, w embarked early and arrived at the Chief’s village at 5 A.M where we found some of the Indians bathing, as it is their custom to bathe at this early hour; the others who were : il asleep soon got up and received us at the water side, but all semed surprised to see us again.
rd, Monay.
About this time our Little Fellow, whom we had left at the The In-
dians de-
village below, arrived and informed us that the Indians, after termine on
our depariure, had fixed upon our destruction, that he himsel!
their des-
‘uction,
The oxpedition abandoned,
202 SIMON FRASERS
had been pillaged, that his hands and feet had been tied, and that he was about being knocked on the head when the Chief ofthe Achinrow arrived, released him and secured his escape to this place, where he was now detained as a slave. This unpleasant reci‘.l served to warn us, more and more, of our danger ; still we were bent upon obtaining sight of the main ocean, which was but at a shoït distance from where we had returned, but unfortunately we could not procure à morsel of provisions, and, besides, the Chief insisted upon having his canoe restored to him immediately ; this demand we were obliged to resist. |
The Chief invited us to his house and we went, but were not above five minutes absent when one of the men came running to inform us that the Indians had seized upon the canoe and were pillaging our people. Alarmed at this report, we hastened to their assistance, when we found that some of
tie Indians from below ha::1g arrived, had encouraged the |
others in these violent proceedings. Sensible by experience of our critical situation, and that mild measures would be improper, as well as of no service, I pretended to be in a violent passion, spoke loud, with vehement gestures, exactly in their own way, and thrs peace und cranquility were instantly restored.
From ‘hese repeated specimens of the insolence and ill-nature of the Natives, we saw nothing but dangers and difficulties in our way, we therefore relinquished our designs and turned our thoughts towards home ; but we could not proceed without the canoe and we had to force it away from the owner, leaving
a blanket in its place. Thus provided, we pushed qff. Her | :
we missed one of our men, G.B.; the fellow being afraid hal fled into the woods and placed himself behind a range of tombs, where he remained during the greatest part of the time. We stayed on shore, and it was with great difficulty we pre vailed upon him to embark.
At Li curren of can( kept t Aware distance cautiot evident I again gesture danger quietly after, a çame to turned.
pended About d continu:
secure p
the cur the mor
Here not seeil within tion by nearly,
This riv vinced q returned
The pe urn an island, à
sen tied, and hen the Chief A his escape slave. This more, of our of the main vhere we had ure à morsel on having his and we were
nt, but were he men came ed upon the at this report, | that some of ncouraged the
experience of d be improper, iolent passion,
eir OWN Way, tored.
At last we got under way and had to pull hard against a strong current : Upon doubling the first point, the Chief, with a number of canoes in his suite well manned and armed, overtook us, and kept together, signing and exhibiting unfriendly manners. Aware of their design, we endeavored to keep them at a proper distance for some time ; at last, growing outrageous at our precautions, they began to surround us and close in, with the evident intention of seizing upon our canoe and upsetting us. [again had recourse 10 threats and vehemence of speech and gesture, which again had the desired effect ; the Chief, seeing danger in his design, spoke to his party and they all dropped quietly behind, but still followed and kept us in view. Soon after, a canve with three men from a river on the left shore çame to examine us ; after satisfying their curiosity, they returned. We observed that one ofthe crew had a larg b2it suspended from his neck, garnished with locks of human hair. About dark, we observed the war party gain the shore, but we continued all night in order to get to the next village, so as to secure provisions before their arrival. The night was dark and the current strong, yet we reached our destination about 8 in the morning.
Here I must again acknowledge my great disappointement in It is not 8 8 P
the Colum-
and ill-nature D Lot seing the main Ocean, having gone so near it as to be almost pin
difficulties in nd turned our bueed without pwner, leaving hed qf. Here ing afraid haî
within view ; we besides wished very mnch Lo settle the situation by an observation for the longitude. The latitude is 490 nearly, while that of the entrance of the Columbia is 46o 20°. This river therefore is not the Columbia ! If T had been convinced of this when I left my canoes, I would certainly have returned.
d a range 0 hrt of the time. À iculty we pré
The people of the village were greatly surprised to see us re-4th, Tues- ; . . . . day:
urn and enquired with impatience if we had been to the ; island, and how we had the good fortune to escape from the
Still pursued by the Coast Indians.
cruelty of the Masquiamme (1), meaning the nations at the sea shore. While we were endeavouring to answer, our pursuers of the day before made their appearance, still bent upon mischief. The leader on landing, began to testify his hostile disposition by brandishing his horn club and making 1 violent harangue to the people of the village who already seemed altogetherin his favor He claimed his canoe ; seeing a number of canoes scattered about the beach, and wishing to get rid of so troublesome ang persevering a persecutor, we consented without hesitation. After fixing the baggage and placing guards over it, at the request of a chief, Mr. Stuart, Mr. Quesnel and myself accompanied him to his tent, and were offered with salmon. We were much flattered with this token of his kindness but we were hardiy seated and had hardly began to partake of his bounty, when one of the men came rushing to the door exclaiming that the Indians were unruly and proceeding to violence; we rushe out of the tent, and at our appearance all was quiet again, but we could not feel free of some alarm seeing the whole village assembled around our baggage, armed with all kinds of weapons and seemingly determined upon mischief.
It was then that our situation might be really considered à critical. Placed upon a small sandy island, few in number without provisions and surrounded by upward of seven hundrel barbarians ! Our resolution did not, however, forsake us ; on the contrary, all were of one mind. ready for action and determined
to make our way good at all hazards.
We applied for canoes in all directions, but could not procure any, for any consideration, so that we had to regret the inadvertancy we committed on our arrival by parting with the one we had in our possession, before it was replaced by another There being no alternative, we again had recourse to the Chief
(1) Mr. Fraser writes the name, both ‘“ Misquiamme ”” and ‘* Masquiamme ”.
notw: asked yielde lengt} dut, | then o We load, t pillage pulled of defe:
before river.
our fav.
observe course leaky, a obliged P.M. w Mr, Stu Started Here ag:
of his more eas the advaï some re purpose seing th we thoug side of t favoured To cons fred seve
ons at the sea our pursuers 1pon mischief, disposition by rangue to the rin his favor.
1068 scaltered sublesome and sitation. After the request of ompanied him e were much e were hardy bounty, when iming that the ce; we rushel uiet again, but whole village inds of weapons
considered as y in number, f seven hundrel rsake us; on the and determinel
uld not procure egret the inadg with the one ed by another rse to the Chief
. |] Masquiamme ”.
notwithstanding our experience of his former illiberality. He asked his price, I consented ; he augmented his demand, I again yielded ; he still continued to increase his imposition, but, at length, feeling highly provoked at the impertinence of his conduct, I exclaimed violently in a manner not to be mistaken, he then ordered the canoe to be brought to our party.
We immediately prepared to embark, but when we began to load, the Indians crowded about the baggage and attempted to pillage, but so soon as they laid hold of any of our things, we pulled it from them, and we had to place ourselves in à position of defence and threaten them with the contents of our pieces before they desisted. Having got ready, we crossed over the river. One of the Indians who evinced a friendly disposition in our favor, followed and gave us some fish, at the same time, we observed several of the others embarking and steering their course parallel to ours along the other bank. The canoe being leaky, and some of the men being in want of paddles, we were obliged to put ashore to repair. This done, we went on till ten P.M., when we encamped upon an island ; the men went to rest,
Mr. Stuart and I mounted guard alternately.
Started early, and at 10 A.M.,, we arrived at Pulagli village. 5tn, Wed- Here again we found the Ghief of the big canoe with several of his people. Their canoes being small and consequently more easily managed than ours, which was large, gave them the advantage over us in stemming the current.
side of the river.
As we had some reason to suspect that these Indians pressed forward on purpose to renew the quarrel and to be troublesome, and seing the Natives more numerous here than in the last camp, we thought it advisable to avoid them by crossing to the other Three men followed us in a canoe, who favoured us with a paddle and with five large salmons.
To convey an idea of the effects of our arms to these men, we fred several shots in their presence and then made them under-
stand that if the Chief should pursue us any further, he woulg suffer severely for his presumption. They desired us to procerq in peace and that no one would disturb us for the future.
We continued ; about sunset two Indians in a canoe overtook us, we knew them ; they invited us to their camp which wx at a small distance on the opposite shore; this invitation w declined and at dark we put up for the night, all wet. The canoe was leaky, but the bank being steep, high, it could not be hauled up for repair. We passed the night within sight of the camp, yet none of the Indians came near us.
6tb,Thurs- Set out early; soon after several canoes joined; in these we
pu recognized Blondin, the chief that flattered us so much the 29th June, also the two Indians of the preceding evening who gave us fish and who, of their own accord, assisted usinthe rapids. Thinking them well disposed, I gave them permission to embark in our canoe; they paddled, but they were not long aboard before they struck up the war song. Perceiving their drift, I imposed silence; a moment after, Blondin got Mr Quesnel’s dagger out of the scabbard and was hiding it under his robe when he was perceived. Seeing their evil disposition, I had them instantly sent ashore. Soon after this, the other Indians made us signs to follow them, but, doubting ther sincerity, we pushed from them into another channel and they doubled their speed.
By and by, we discovered a large camp of Indians whose ap pearance soon taught us that they were not assembled for any good purpose, and when we came opposite to them the whok were in motion. Some were in canoes, others lined the shor and all were inclining our way ; at last it was with diffculy we could prevent them with the muzzle of our guns from seizing upon the canoe; they, however, continued to give us such a push with the intention of upsetting us, that our canoe became
gaged in a strong current which, in spite of all our efforts, car.
2 lime some
ried us foot of orderec the hill our pre I the:
Mr, Stu across | 2th of.
I debar!
infatual inther they saw 0m im danger, Î nations, them, cri
I remon:
joined me taking,
remaininé common
After shook ha resolutio taken on t “Almigh “any of q
After th apparel an
they inher them dive
ner, he would us to proceed future.
anoe overtook ip which was invitation we all wet. The 1, it could not vithin sight of À d; in these we s so much the 1g evening Who sisted us in the hem permission were not long >erceiving their londin got Mr hiding it under evil disposition, this, the other doubting their hannel and they
idians whose ap sembled for any hem the whol lined the shore
s with difficuly
uns from seizing
e us such a push
anoe became et:
our efforts, Cal:
ried us down the rapid. We however gained the shore at the foot of a high hill where we tied the canoe to a tree. Here I ordered Mr. Stuart with some of the men to debark and ascend the hill in order to keep the Indians in awe ; they, perceiving our preparation for defence, retired, but still kept ahead.
Ithen directed the men who were on shore to embark, but Someofthe
Mr. Stuart came to inform me that they were bent going by land RÉ across the mountains to the place where we had slept on the 9{th of June. Considering this scheme as a desperate undertaking, I debarked and endeavoured to persuade the delinquents of their infatualion ; but two of them declared in their own names and in the names of the others that their plan was fixed, and that they saw no other way by which they could save themselves om immediate destruction than by fl;ing out of the way of danger, for, said they, continuing by water, surrounded by hostile nations, who watched every opportunity to attack and torment them, created in their mind a state of suspicion worse than death. I remonstrated and threateneü by turns, the other gentlemen joined me in my endeavours to expose the foily of their undertaking, and the advantages that would accrue to us all by remaining, as we had hitherto done, in perfect union for our common safety.
After much debate on both sides, they vielded and we allTheoath of shook hands, resolved not to separate during the voyage, which EE resolution was immediately confirmed by the following oath taken on the spot by each of the party. ‘I solemnly swear before “Almighty God that I shall sooner perish than forsake in distress “any of our crew during the present voyage ”.
After this ceremony was over, all hands âressed in their best apparel and each took charge of his own bundle. In the mean lime some of the peaceable Indians came to pay us a visit; they inherited our superfluities, and it diverted us much to see them dive into the river and scramble about rags which the
