FIRST EXPEDITION

The trading party meets with the ‘ Lewis and Clarke ” expedition.—The Americans disliked by the Natives.—The Mandans despise beaver hunting.—Kindness of the Natives. — The American officers.—The Mandans, as husbandmen.— Alarm in the Mandan camp.

In the Fall of 1804, Mr. Charles Chaboillez, (1) one of the part. ners of the North-West Company, then acting in the Department of the Assiniboine River, having agreed with his opponents in trade, that neither party should make any out-posts exceeding those already established, found himself with more men and goods than were necessary in that quarter. He therefore thought it expedient to send the overplus to the Mandane country which was beyond the limits of his agreement, and hired for that purpose a Free-man of the name of La France. —Being the only Frenchman who was acquainted with the route, and having been a Mississouri trader for several years, this procured to him, on the present occasion, the treble appointments of guide, clerk, and interpreter, though I must own that he was very unequal to the discharge of either of these duties.

Matters being thus settled, we watched an opportunity to steal away from our oppounents, on account of the trade, and from the Assiniboines, on account of their enmity to the Indians of he Mississouri. At length, finding a fair opening, we took our departure.

(1) Mr. Charles J. Bte. Chaboilles, see : ‘‘ Les Bourgeois de la Compagnie du Nord- Ouest” page, 81

Our party consisted of Mr. La Rorque, Mr. La France, four

voyageurs (1) and myself. Four horses carried our assortment for the trade, and twice as many were assigned to carry our. selves, the whole in charge of Mr. La Rocque, a deserving young gentleman. As for myself, happening to be newlr arrived in the Indian country, I was placed as an assistant to Mr. La France, who did not know how to write.

We proceeded ; but to avoid the Natives we were obliged to lengthen our journey by taking a circuitous route, which con. duected us through many extensive plains, most of which were in flaunes. as is generally the case at this season of the year.

In the course of a few days, we observed whole herds of buffaloes with their hair singed; some were blind, and half roasted carcasses strewed our way. We suffered great inconveuience through the scarcity of wood and water, and our horses were as badly off for water and food as we were. In this manner we joggled on until we came to the Dog Lodge, à remarkable place which the Sioux warriors often frequent in their hostile excursions.

After crossing this chain of mountains, we all of a sudden, heard the signal cry of Indians in a valley below us. I must acknowledge that we were not a little alarmed—but we continued our route determined to fight our way. On our approach, we discovered the Indians to be Assiniboines from Rivière à la Souris, one of the North-West Company’s Establishments. After smoking the pipe and hearing the news, an Assiniboine, who had not taken anÿ share in either, boldly laid hold of one of our horses. Mr. La Rocque without hesitation snatched the bridle out of the Indian’s hand, then the Indian bent his bow to shoot the horse: at this moment one of our men leveled his piece.

(1) W. Morrison, Bte, Turenne, Alexis McKay, Joseph Azure. See : Mr. Larocque’s journal,

and wo compell Soon accomp:

obliged the day three of two day but cou fore we:

lost.

We p Mississo joy and traders :

Here :

like out days be had fall prisonel for thei for trad the rem amends the Mar prices 1 whole Here, commat the Miss in a bo:

iortifica had hel

rance, four assortment Carry ourà deserving

be newlr assistant to

obliged to which conwhich were 1e year.

le herds of nd, and half reat inconer, and our ere. In this Dog Lodge, à | frequent in

nf a sudden, pus. I must it we contiur approach,

Rivière à la ments. After niboine, who of one of our d the bridle bow to shoot ed his piece,

e : Mr. Larocque's

THE MISSISSOURI INDIAN& 329

and would have despatched the Indians had not Mr. La Rocque compelled him to desist,

Soon after this disagreable interruption, a strong gust of wind, accompanied with sand and burnt dust, obscured the «sky, and obliged us to seek shelter in a deep Raveline for the rest of the day. Our horses were left to graze close by ; next morning three of them were missing. We looked in vain forthem during two days, their tracks conld be distinguished here and there but could not always be followed in the burnt plains, we therefore were obliged to abandon the pursuit, and gave them up as lost.

We proceeded on our journey ; arriving within sight of the Mississouri, the Natives ficw in crowds to meet us, wishing us joy and congratulating ‘themselves upon our appearance as traders amongst them. These were of the Gros Ventres nation.

Here we found four of the Hudson’s Bay Company's servants, like ourselves on a trading expedition. They had arrived six days before, and informed us that, having lost their way, thev had fallen in with a partv of Assiniboines who detained them prisoners for seven days, and compelled them to pay handsomely for their liberty. This incident greatly diminished their stock for trade, but, expecting no opposition, they raised the valne of the remainder and thereby entertained hopes of making ample amends for the loss sustained by the hostile Indians. However, the Mandaues had not entered into their views, and, finding our prices more moderate, we soon obtained the command of the whole of their furs.

Here, we also found à party of forty Americains, under the command of Captains Lewis and Clarke, exploring a passage by the Mississouri to the Pacific Ocean. They came up the river in a boat of twenty oars, accompanied by two pirogues. Their iortifications for winter quarters were already complete. Thev had held a council with the Mandanes and distributed many

presents, but most of the chiefs did not accept of any from them.

Some time after, Captain Lewis, with three interpreters, paid a visit to the Gros Ventres village, and went directly to the Serpent’s Lodge, where he passed the night. Next morning, he came to the village where I was. and observed to me that he was not very graciously received at the upper village. “I sent word ahead ”, said he, “ to inform La Belette qui porte des cornes that I intended to take up my quarters at his lodge, he returned for answer that ‘“ he was not at home ”. This conduct surprised me, it being common only among your En. glish Lords, not to be ‘ at home” when they did not wish to see strangers, but as I had felt no inclination ofentering any house after being told the landlord would not be “ at home ””, I looked out for another lodging, which [ readily found ”.

After haranguing the Indians and explaining to them the purport of his expedition to the westward, several of them accepted of clothing, but, notwithstanding, they could not be reconciled to like these “ strangers ”” as they called them.

‘“ Had these Whites come amongst us,” said the chiefs, ‘ with

“ charitable views they would have loaded their ‘Great Boat”

“* with necessaries. It is true they have ammunition, but they ‘ prefer throwing it away idly than sparing a shotofittoa “ poor Mandane.”

The Indians admired the air gun, as it could discharge forty shots out of one load, but they dreaded the magic of the owners. ‘“ Had I these white warriors in the upper plains ”” said the Gros Ventres chief, “my young men on horseback would soon do for ‘“ them, as they wouli do for so many “ wolves,” for ” continued he, ‘there are only two sensible men among them, the warier ‘ of iron and the mender of guns.”

The American gentlemen gave flags and medals to the chiefs on condition that they should not go to war unless the enemy

attack whose val, W death agress wisely their :

them course Abc we liv order the D:

the toi by bec come | quarte

make

Bea troubl they v could but th bowel only { they ‘!

“sma “ stra ‘use “pres “gra

lre and g

of any from

rpreters, paid ly to the Sermorning, he o me thathe village. “I etle qui porte àt his lodge, Lome ”’. This ong your En.

ot wish to see ng any house me ””, I looked

to them the veral of them could not be d them.

chiefs, ‘ with r ‘Great Boat” tion, but they shot ofitto a

ischarge forty of the owners.

* said the Gros Id soon do for or *’ continued 1, the worïer

to the chiefs ess the enemy

THE MISSISSOURI INDIANS 881

attacked them in their villages. Yet the Chief of the “ Wolves, ” whose brother had been killed in the fall previous to our arrival, went soon after with a party of fifty men to revenge his death. Having not found the Blackfeet Indians, who were the agressors, or rather having found them too numerous,the party wisely retraced their steps withoutt making an attempt ; but on their return, having found some Canadians. they killed four of them and raised their scalps which were disposed of in the course of their traffic to the Rocky Mountain Indians.

About Christmas, the buffaloes drew near the villages, and we lived on the fat of the land. Hunting and eating became the order of the day. Large parties who went daily in pursuit of the buffaloes often killed whole herds, but returned only with the tongues. The wolves feasted upon the carcasses, and, thereby becoming too heavy to make their escape, were easily overcome by the hunters of the ensuing day. The Indians in this quarter seldom use guns for buffaloes, woives &c. ; for these they

make use of arrows.

Beavers are plentiful, but the JIndians will not take the trouble of attending to them. They often remarked to me that they would think it a pleasure to supply us with beavers if they could be secured the same as buffaloes by a chase on horseback, but they considered the operation of searching for them in the bowels of the earth, to satisfy the avarice of tie Whites, not only troublesome, but very degrading White people ” said they ‘‘ do not know how to live, they leave their houses in “small parties, they risk their lives on the great waters, among “ strange nations, who will Lake them forenemies. What is the ‘ use of beaver ? do they make gun-powder of them? Do they “ preserve them from sickness. Do they serve them beyond the ‘grave ?”

lremarked that the Nerthern nations were very industrious and great friends to the white people We are no Slaves !”

rejoined the chief. ‘Our fathers were not Slaves! In my young ‘“ days there were no white men, and we knew no wants; we ‘ were successful in war; our arrows were pointed with flint, “our lances with stone and their wounds were mortal; our “ villages rejoiced when the men returned from war, for, of the “ scaips of our enemies, they brought many. The white people ‘“ came, they brought with them some good, but they brought ‘the small pox, and they brought evil liquors ; the [ndians ‘since diminish and they are no longer happy.”

In February our trading goods were nearly finished, and the few goods that still remained wer: laid aside for à hunting party who were absent since the Fall. Apprehensive that the Hudson Bay traders had an eye upon this party, Mr. La Rocque sent for one Charbonneau, who was with the American party as interpreter, in order to accompany us and to have the start of our troublesome neighbours.

Everything being ready for our departure, the difficulty now Mr. La Rocque and I agreed in opinion that the best plan would be

was how to set out unperceived by our opponents. to drive their horses out of the way. With this view, we can. tiously watched until the people of the village were asleep, then quietlv conducted to à considerable distance in the plains,

the horses were detached from their confinement and then, thinking all safe, we saddled our own horses: but our guide, who slept apart, could not be discovered.

This incident threw us into a grievous perplexity. I set ont without him, accompanied by the interpreter and another Canadian, who also was attached to the American expedition. When we got to a certain distance, we waited for day light, in the meantime, we sent Charbonneau back for ‘he guide, but he returned without hin. He, however, learnt that the Hudson Bay traders missed their horses, were alarmed aud employed

Indians, who soon discovered and brought them back tothe

owner route.

Mor my jo storm our Wi

smail

three « Here present which upon à

agreed

tion, W had ta Indian:

share

our fri lost ou We loaded

cumsta

us, and observ any of having

course Thi hand, Indi

In my young o wants; we d with flint, mortal; our r, for, of the white people hey hrought : the Indians hed, aud the or à hunting sive that the fr. La Rocque erican party have the start

ifficulty now ents. Mr. La lan would be view, We Cat

were asleep, finement and un the plains, rses ; but our

ty. [set ont another Canadition. When y light, in the guide, but he at the Hudson aud employed m back tothe

THE MISSISSOURI INDIANS 838

owners, who, having found out our views, went by a different route.

Mortüfied at my disappointment, [ resolved upon continuing my jouruey by means of the track of the other party, bnt a storm of drift and suow having obscured our aorizon, we lost our way and were obliged to seek shelter under the banks of a smail creek, where the severity of the weather detained us three days.

Here we found plenty of buffaloes, they did not mind our presence, and we killed four of them for the sake of their hides, which we required for shelter. A party of Indians who were upon à hunting excursion fell in with our encampment; I agreed with one of them and he conducted us to our destination, where we learnt that our opponents, who had been there, had taken their departure the day before our arrival, but the Indians, having had intelligence of our approach, reserved us a share of the trade. When we returned to the village, we found our friends greatly alarmed for our safety, fearing that we had lost our way, or that we were misled by the Natives.

We were now short of goods ; a band of Indians, who were loaded with furs, were on the eve of arriving, and from this circumstance our opponents might have a decided advantage over us, and the idea cast a gloom upon our party. My landlord observing this change, felt uneasy and inquired whether he, or any Of his family had given offence, I said, no, but that his tribe having apparently decided in favour of our apponents, we, of course, would withdraw ourselves, uever to return.

This declaration distressed the old man. He took me by the hand,—* Do not go, do not abandon me, my son,” said he, ‘the “ Indians who are coming to-morrow will be kind to you; I “will go with you to their village ; your mother and your “ sister will join us,-and we shall lalk of you; tbe Indians love

“ my family, and you shall have all their furs. Take courage, ‘“ my son, quiet your mind and go to rest ”.

We followed this good man’s advice. Next morning the old man was as good as is word; we paid a family visit to the In. dians upon their arrival; his son presented them with the pipe, he himself went upon the top of a house and harangued in our favor, while his kind females were busily employed from place to place, collecting the skins until the whole was thus secured,

Two bands of Assiniboines of a hundred lodges each, who passed the winter atthe Forks of the Little Mississouri, sent daily to the villages to barter for corn, beans, &c. They were trou. blesome to us, but they advised Mr. La Rocque to send for an assortment in order to trade their hunt, but this measure re. quired consideration.

The snow was 100 deep for horses, and, for the same reason, men would require snow shoes, the frames of which could easily be provided, but no one knew how to knit them. We were informeu of an old man who used to talk of snow shoes, but this man was blind with age and therefore could not afford us any assistance. The old man remarked that in the days of his youth, he, in common with many others, made use of the like for walking, and could run with them, in those days, as fast as the horses run at present.

Having been disappointed in our expectations, we went to work ourselves, and made raqueltes by passing thongs at right angles one accross another, some thing like a riddle. In the evening, Mr. La Rocque with the only man we then had remaining took their departure, accompanied by a dog to carry

their provisions. The journey to the Fort and back again, we |

supposed might require at least twenty days to perform; 1 was in charge of all. The horses caused me much uneasiness, I was afraid the Indians might take a fancy to them, and carry them off,

Be rills mer chan there perty of th only redu who with:

conse of th

In our n when hospi bega appre about

The sente( on th appeë powd

Mr and © incre( point trade.

abse visit

Take courage,

orning the old visit to the Inwith the pipe, rangued in our yed from place 18 thus secured, iges each, who souri, sent daily hey were trou.

e to send for an his measure re-

le same reason, jf which could knit them. We of snow shoes, could not afford tin the days of nade use of the Lose days, as fast

pns, we went to thongs at right riddle. In the we then had by a dog to carry

back again, we !

) perform ; 1 was neasiness, Ï was ,and carry them

THE MISSISSOURI INDIANS 835

Being now on the eve of spring, the snow began to thaw, the rills to run, and the Natives to cross their effects to their summer residence on the opposite banks of the Mississouri. OC: this change, I was not aware at the departure of Mr. La Rocque, therefore no provision was made for it. To remove all the property Was inconvenient ; to remain with it after the departure of the Indians was dangerous ; however, circumstances would only admit of the last alternative, and at length, I found myself reduced to the company and protection of my worthy landlord, who remained behind his friends merely to oblige me. He, notwithstanding, thought our situation very insecure and was consequently perpetually on his guard, being greatly in dread of the enemy.

In the day time, he repaired to the top of the highest hill in our neighbourhood ; at night he could not sleep in peace and when he did slumber, it was always under arms. Seeing my hospitable friend in this continual state of alarm and auxiety, I began to feel uneasy and proposed to give communication of our apprehension to the American Gentlemen, who were stationed about nine miles from us.

The old man was highly pleased at my design, and he con: sented to remain about, the following day, during my absence on this message, but the same evening Mr. LaRocque made his appearance, and the old man was happy ; he fired away all his powder in demonstration of his joy.

Mr. La Rocque, notwithstanding great difficulties on the way and considerable sufferings, had been very expeditious. almost incredibly so, but he was disappointed, I may say doubly disappointed. The Indians who had induced him to make the journey traded the greatest part of their hunt to others in Mr. LaRocque’s absence, Nor did he find Mr. Chaboillez at home, he was on a visit to Mr. Henry'’s, in Lower Red River.

Report was in circulation that the company of Sir Alexander MacKenzie had coalesced with the North. West Co. both forming but one conucern. This was good news, for Gpusition ot interest creates dreadful disturbances, both in means and morals, throughout these savage countries,

Notwithstanding the difliculty of procuring horses and other necessaries, our people, with those from Hudson Bay, and our returns were on the way home in less than four days after Mr. LaRocque’s arrival The Returns formed loads for seven horses,

Mr. La Rocque and [having nothing very particular claiming attention, we lived conutentedly and became intimate with the gentlemen of the American expedition, who on all occasions seemed happy to see us, and always treated us with civility and kindness. It is true, Captain Lewis could not make himself agreable to us. He could speak fluently and learnedly on all subjects, but his inveterate disposition against the British stained, at least in our eyes, all his eloquence. Captain Clarke was equally weil informed, but his conversation was always pleasant, for he seemed to dislike giving offence unnecessarily,

The Missurie was free of ice the second of April, then the American gentlemen sent off their twenty oar boat, with ten men, for the United States, and, on the 8th following, the expedition proceeded up the river towards the Rocky Moun: tains. It consisted ot one large Pirogue and seven small wooden canoes, containing the commanding officers, thirty men anda woman; the woman, who a:swered the purpose of wife to Charbonneau, was of the Serpent nation and lately taken à prisoner by a war party. She understood a little Gros Ventres, in which she had to converse with her husband, who was à Canadian aud did not understand English. A mulatto, who spoke bad French and worse English, served as interpreter to the Captains, so that a single word to be understood by the

party required to pass from the Natives to the woman, from

W'oy

weal seek

sour

sink

are of bu

Th amo to an spa | least boilir the sd delici bury spring

low, abun thère

toura/ ice, h

Sir Alexander both forming ion of interest

and morals,

rses and other n Bay, and our days after Mr.

or seven horses, icular claiming mate with the on all occasions with civility and ot make himself earnedly on all nst the British Captain Clarke tion was always ce unnecessarily:

April, then the ar boat, with ten th following, the he Rocky Moun:

ven small wooden thirty men and à irpose Of wife 10 nd lately taken à ittle Gros Venires, band, who was à A mulatto, who d as interpreter lo nderstood by the the woman, from

THE MISSISSOURI INDIANS 337

the woman to the husband, from the husband to the ; from the mulatto to the captains. Nes + [ was once present when vocabularies were being made of languages of the mandane villages ; the two French | . pos ne to Detns medium of information, FRA enr of MR word that was taken down by the s the Indians could not well comprehend the i ARE of recording their words, they concluded t} ee ricans had a wicked design upon their country aat the Amesen and OjAeE animals are in one numbers des toyed every winter by the Mississouri Indians ns a weather, whole droves run from the san Poe RER Beer in the woods which form the ain of eu se 2 ons many of them, attempting to cross nénaie téb ne . Se ere and, in thespring, both sides ; Are several place s river nn A L. es with rotten carcases and skeletons These dead animals, which often float down the current

amon t ' i È ÿ

to any other kind of food. When the skin is raised you will s raise wi

$ d the à ÿ 2: € Le e l st e SI 1, and SO l'ip and t d se | 4 > 3n er that erv little W e £ reen, 1S l 2ckon d The > C Y

le) I

there were sti e still plenty, and I had opportunity of observing tl courage and d ù es.

: : : exterity of the young Mandanes among the floating | Le

, hauling ashore some scores of these nauseous ca - Ê rcasses ?

338 YHARLES MACKENZIE

while the women, as active as they, were securing all the drift wood within their reach for fire.

The Mandanes are excellent swimmers ; [ was no less surpriged to see in the drift ice the men occasionally leap from one block to another, often falling between, plunging under, darting up elsewhere and securing themselves upon very slippery flakes ; yet no serious accident happened. The women performed their part equally well ; you would see them slip out of their leather aimoks, despising danger, plunge into the troubled deep to secure | their object. Nor did they seem to feel the smallest inconve. nience from the presence of crowds who lined the beach. The men and women of this place do not think it necessary to sew fig leaves together to make themselves aprons, and they are not ashamed to appear naked in public.

Drift wood supplies the villages with fuel, which, as well as the timbers for their houses, is dragged home always by the women. Horses are never employed on these occasions.

Wood is scarce here, which is the cause that villages are often removed. A great quantity of dry and green wood is required every winter,the dry for fuel,the green for provender; a certain portion of poplar branches is provided for each horse, and the bark, which the horse clears off, is reckoned little inferior to oats.

In the spring, so soon as the weather and the state of the ground will permit, the women repair to the fields, when they cut the stalks of the Indian corn of the preceding year and drop new seed into the socket of the remaining roots. A small kind of pumpkins which are very productive they piant witha dibble, and raise the ground into hillocks the same as thos about Indian corn. Their kidney beans they plant in the same

manner.

They cultivate a tall kind of sun flower, the seed of whichis reckoned good eating dry and pounded with fat and made into

boine Villagd that m strange of the

bal jou gal for tan( or :

ligh TI pose a bu Witl and & Th field and t the w with, tobacd of this

reckoi foot i as the This k strang plant « it fou

In d

g all the drift

less surprisæd rom one block er, darting up ippery flakes ; erformed their of their leather | deep to secure | nallest inconvehe beach. The lecessary to sew ind they are nol

hich, as well as ae always by the occasions.

hat villages are d green wood is in for provender; d for each horse, is reckoned litile

the state of the fields, when they ing year and drop ts. A small kind ey piant with à the same as those plant in the samê

e seed of which is at and made into

THE MISSISSOURI INDIANS 339

balls of three or four ounces; they are found excellent for long journeys. One of these balls, with the addition of a few roots gathered occasionnally in their way, is considered sufficient for a whole day, Warriors who generally travel great distances in quest of an enemy, and who dare not raise a smoke or fire a shot, for fear of discovery, find these balls useful, light, and convenient.

The only implement used among the Mandanes for the purpose of agriculture is a hoe made from the shoulder blade of a buffaloe and which is ingrafted upon a short crooked handle, With this crooked instrument they work very expeditiously, and soon do all that is required for their supplies.

The men never trouble their heads about the labours of the field unless to reprimand the women for some noted neglect, and to sow a few squares of tobacco which, being a sacred plant, the women, who are considered unclean, must not interfere with, except in preparing the ground for its reception. The tobacco squares are carefully kept clear of weeds. The blossoms of this plant are cautiously collected and, dried in the sun, are reckoned the very best of tobacco. The plants do not exceed a foot in height; they resemble spinage and are dried the same as the flowers, then pounded and mixed with grease for use. This kind of tobacco is weak, tastes differently from ours, and the smell which the smoke emits is very disagreable to strangers. [ could not ascertain whence the Indians had that plant originally, but we must suppose it is from below, and that it found its way, the same as the horses did, from the Spaniards.

In due season, some men and horses arrived from the Assiniboine or Red river. We crossed to meet them atthe Mandane Village, where we found the [ndians in great alarm, having that morning discovered at the entrance of the village some strange arrows and an old shoe, insolent signals. The position of the enemy was anxiously looked for all day, in the ensuing

te Re EP en - pe EP ES

A A eg + e - |

night several shots were heard. This created singing and dancing ; drum beating and war hoops. occupied all hands to the dawn of day, when the whole village moved forward to brave the enemy, but all the vestiges they found consisted only of a dead horse with five arrows through his body. From this incident it was inferred the number of the enemy did not exceed the number of arrows found in the horse; that these five were horse stealers, and that finding only one horse they could not make a division and therefore settled the business as is customary on such occasions, in this summary manner.

Mr. La Rocque having made the necessary preparations for our journey, we leît the Mississouri on the ?rd April and arrived at Assiniboine Fort on the 22nd May, where Chaboillez received us kindly,thanked us for our winter toil, and, as a token of his approbation, made each of us a present of à horse.

So ended my first trip to the Mississouri ; my next task will be to relate the observations made in my second expedition.

In th seen se garding beavers large ar Was CO

In co the pla Rocque ordered

Ont The pa voyage

Soon periencé in safet Bay par salisfie arrived

singing and all hands to forward to onsisted only From this bmy did not hat these five se they could business as is anner.

eparations for il and arrived oillez received a token of his à, next task will expedition.

THE MISSISSOURI INDIANS 341